
1.ITTLE 
F0LKS 
HANDY 
BOOFC 



Si 





LIMA BEARD 

AND 

ADELIA B, BEARD 



|«lM|l»{«f 




mammmam 




Glass 
Book. 



£^1703 



G)|pijlii N^ 



r01»YRIGHT DEPOSIT 



Little Folks' 

Handy Book 



Little Folks' 

Handy Book 



By 
LINA BEARD AND ADELIA B. BEARD 



With Many Illustrations 
by the Authors 



NEW YORK 

Charles Scribner's Sons 

1910 



^^^^ 







Copyright, lyio, by 
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 



SPECIAL NOTICE 
All the material in this book, both text and cuts, is original with the 
authors and invented by them; and warning is hereby given that the 
unauthorized printing of any portion of the text and the reproduc- 
tion of any of the illustrations or diagrams are expressly forbidden^ 




cm A2593 



PREFACE 

"Let me do it. Let me make it," is the cry when a child 
sees an older person putting together the different parts of 
an interesting piece of work; and it is this desire to do 
things himself, this impulse toward self-expression, that 
when properly directed, forms so great a factor in his all- 
around development and education. Using the hands and 
bram together stimulates interest and quickens observation 
and intelligence, and, as the object takes form beneath the 
little fingers, the act of making, of creating, brings with it a 
delight and satisfaction which the mere possession of the 
same thing made by another can not give. "Look! See 
what / have made," comes with a ring of triumph as the 
childish hands gleefully hold up the finished article for 
inspection. 

In this book we have endeavored to open a new and 
large field of simple handicrafts for little folk, giving them 
an original line of toys and a new line of material's with 
which to make them. We hope in these pages to bring to 
children the joy of making creditable and instructive toys 
of such ordinary things as empty spools, sticks of kindlin<. 
wood, wooden clothespins, natural twigs, old envelopes and 
newspapers, and in this way to encourage resourcefulness 

V '' 



vi Preface 

originality, inventiveness, and the power to do with supplies 
at hand. 

Everything described in the book has been actually made 
by the authors, and made by such practical and simple 
methods that a child's mind can grasp them, and a child's 
hands be easily trained to manufacture the articles. It is, 
therefore, our hope that the "Little Folks' Handy Book" 
will be found useful both in Kindergarten and Primary 
grades of the schools and in the home nursery; a helpful 
friend to teachers and to mothers. 

LiNA Beard. 
Adelia B. Beard. 

pLUsmNG, N. Y., Fehriiary lo, 1910. 



CONTENTS 

I. Paper Building Cards . . 



CHAPTER 

PAGE 

I 



II. Toys Made of Common Wooden Berry-Baskets . . 5 

III. Straw and Paper Furniture 

IV. A Newspaper Boat which Will Sail on Real Water 15 
V. Paper Jewelry 

VI. What to Make of Empty Spools 28 

VII. Old Envelope Toys and How to Make Them ... 47 

VIII. Toys of Clothespins 

IX. Scrap-Books ... ^ 
64 

X. Toys Made of Common Kindling Wood 70 

XI. Little Twig People . . 

79 

XII. Visiting-Card Houses 

XIII. Playing Indians with Costumes Made of Newspapers 98 

XIV. Christmas-Tree Decorations log 

XV. A Home-Made Santa Claus j2 

XVI. Nature Study with Tissue-Paper j^o 



LITTLE FOLKS' HANDY BOOK 



CHAPTER I 



PAPER BUILDING CARDS 



Make your building cards of ordinary writing-paper. 
You may have as many cards as you like, though twelve are 
all that are used to make the things shown in our photographs. 

For each card cut an oblong of paper five inches long and 
two and a half inches wide. This is a very good size, but you 




Fig. 1 — Cut an oblong out like tliis. 



Fig. 2 — This is tlie building card. 



can make them a little larger or smaller. Always remember, 
however, to have them just twice as long as they are wide, and 
all of one size. When you have cut out the oblong (Fig. i) 
fold it through the middle, bringing the two short edges evenly 
together. The dotted line in Fig. i shows where it is to be 
folded. Now open the oblong half-way and you will have 
the building card (Fig. 2). They are very simple and easy 
to make, aren't they? But wonderful and delightful things 

1 



2 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



can be built with these pieces of paper. You can have a 
whole camp of little tents by standing the cards with the 
folded edge up; and to make 

A Camp Chair 

all you need do is to push two of your tents close together, 
then on top of their folded edges lay another card with one 




Fig. 3— You can make a little camp chair. Fig. 4 — Use the tents to make this pyramid. 

flat side down to form the seat and the other side up for the 
back. 

The second illustration (Fig. 3) shows just how to do this. 
Use the tents again for 



The Pyramid 

in Fig. 4. Stand three tents in a row close together. On top 
of these make a floor by laying two cards across with one side 
of each card extending down at the back of the tents. Then 
build a second story — two tents this time, with a floor on top. 
The third and top story will be one tent, which forms the 



Paper Building Cards 3 

peak of the pyramid. Of course you can make your pyramid 
very much larger by adding more tents to the first row and 
then building it up higher. 

The Stable 

is very cunning with its four little stalls. To build it you 
must stand the cards on their side edges as in Fig. 2. One 




Fig. 5— a little stable with four little stalls. 

side forms the back wall of the stall, the other the side wall. 
When you have reached the end of the row you will find the 
last stall lacks a side wall, but all you have to do is to slide 
another back wall behind the last and there you have the 
needed side wall. Put a roof over the stalls just as you made 
the floors for your pyramid, and then stand a tent on top for 
the cupola. Place a card at each end of the stalls, as shown 
in the illustration, and your stable is ready for its tiny horses. 
Build 

The Garden Wall 

(Fig. 6) by standing the cards on their side edges. You can 
make the garden any size or shape you like, but always have 



4 Little Folks' Handy Book 

the gateway just wide cnouf^h to hold the tent roof on top. 
See how the cards stand with edojes in on either side of the 




Fig. 6 — A garden wall and gateway. 



opening. This will support the tent-shaped roof. Perhaps 
the children will want a house in the garden. You can build 
one if you try. Then see how many more things can be 
made of the paper cards, for I have not told you half of them. 



CHAPTER II 

TOYS MADE OF COMMON WOODEN BERRY-BASKETS 

Use a one-quart wooden berry-box for the china closet 
(Fig. 7). Turn the empty box facing you, and slide the 
prongs of a clothespin up through the open crack at the 
lower right hand of the box. Allow one prong of the clothes- 
pin to come on the outside and the other prong on the inside 




Fig. 7 — The berry-basket china closet. 



Fig. 8 — Slide clothespins on the basket 
for legs. 



of the thin wooden side of the box; adjust the clothespin well 
to the front edge of the box, and it will form the right-hand 
front leg of the china closet. Add another leg in like manner 
on the same side of the box for the back leg; then slide two 
more clothespins up on the opposite side of the box to form 
the remaining two legs (Fig. 8). 

The prongs of the clothespins do not reach up to the top 
of the inside of the box, but leave sufficient space for a shelf. 

5 



() 



Little Folk's^ Handy Book 



Make the shelf by laying a clothespin across from side to 
side, supported by the prongs of the back legs, and another 
across, supported by the prongs of the front legs (Fig. 8). 
The clothespin used for the front of the shelf will probably 
have to be a trifle longer than that for the back, as the box 
is wider in front than at the back. Set some toy dishes on 
the top, the shelf, and the inside bottom of the china closet, 
as in Fig. 7. 

With another quart berry-box and four more clothespins 
make the 

Doll's Table 

Slide the prongs of a clothespin down on either side of the 
box at the four corners (Fig. 9), then turn the table right side 




Fig. 9 — Slide the prongs of the clothespins 
down on the sides of the box. 



Fig. 10— Make the doll's table. 



up, placing it on its feet. Set the table with toy dishes, and 
dinner will be ready (Fig. 10). 

The table can be turned into a dressing-case by standing 
two clothespins on their heads at each side of the back of the 
top of the table, and sliding a piece of stiff paper across from 
clothespin to clothespin between the prongs for a mirror 



Common Wooden Berry-Basket Toys 7 

(Fig. ii). Of course, the addition of a fringed white paper, 
or cloth scarf, over the top of the dressing-case would enhance 
its appearance, as would also a table-cloth over the top of 
the dinner table, but the covers were purposely omitted in 
the photographs that one may see exactly how the articles 
were made. 
Make a 

Dolly's Bassinet 

(Fig. 12) of a small oblong berry-basket with four clothespin 
legs slanting outward at the bottom and the prongs of the legs 




Fig. 11— The table can be turned 
into a dressing-case. 



' Fig. 12 — A perfect little bassinet. 



on each side brought together at the top (Fig. 13). On the 
centre of one end of the basket slide down the prongs of a 
fifth clothespin to form the upright for hoMing drapery (Fig. 
13). When adjusted, fold a lady's handkerchief diagonally 
through the centre and hang it over the support, as in Fig. 12. 
The bassinet will then be ready for a folded handkerchief as 
bedding and a little baby doll. 
A comical little berry-basket 



8 



Little Folk's J I a tidy Book 



" Bow-wow " 

(Fig. 14) can be made by using a twp-quart basket for the 
body, the bassinet basket for a head, and clothespins for 
ears, tail, and legs Fasten the legs on the body so that the 





Fig. 13 — The bassinet without the drapery. Fig. 14 — A comical berry-basket " bow-wow. 

front legs will slant forward and the back legs backward, that 
the dog may appear to be running (Fig. 15); slide a clothes- 
pin on the end of the basket for a tail; then fasten two 
clothespins slanting backward on the small basket for ears; 




Fig. 15 — Put the legs on slantingly. 



Fig 



16 — The berry-basket wagon witl 
clothespin horses. 



set the small basket on the front end of the large one, placing 
it so that almost half of it projects over the large basket, and 
the comical little dog will be finished. 

Fig. 16 shows two clothespin horses attached to a 

Berry-basket Wagon 

with clothespin wheels. The driver is a clothespin held up 
by a clothespin seat, and the wagon is filled with clothes})in 
people along each side edge. 



CHAPTER III 

STRAW AND PAPER FURNITURE 

A HANDFUL of straws, such as are used for lemonade and 
soda-water, several large sheets of writing-paper, and some 
small-sized pins — these are your materials. A pair of sharp 




Fig. 1'7— The old-fashioned bedstead. 

scissors, a ruler marked off into whole, half, and quarter 
inches, and a lead pencil — these are your tools. 

We will begin with the old-fashioned four-post bedstead 
with its canopy and valances (Fig. 17). It is easily put 

9 



10 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



together, but you must be careful to cut the straws for the 
posts all exactly the same length, making them about seven 
inches long, and to have your measurements for the other 
parts quite correct, in order that the bedstead may stand 
perfectly upright. Select four straight straws for the posts — 
sound and whole. Split straws will not do. 

The mattress and canopy are exactly alike; each has its 
valance, and they are just the same size ; so directions for one 
will answer for both. Cut an oblong of writing-paper eight 
and a half inches long and six and a half inches wide. Be 
sure that the ends and side edges form perfect right angles; 
if they do not, the bed will be crooked. The edges of your 
sheet of writing-paper are at right angles to one another, and 
if you use the top edge of your paper for the top edge of your 
oblong, and the side edge of the paper for one side edge of 
your oblong, the rest will come out all right. 

Now draw perfectly straight lines across your oblong from 
top to bottom, just one and a half inches from each edge 

(Fig. i8). Then from 
side to side draw two 
more straight hnes; the 
first one and a half inches 
below the top edge and 
the other one and a half 
inches above the bottom, 
edge. This gives the 
mattress with a. border 
all around. In each cor- 
ner of the mattress, a lit- 
tle more than a quarter 
of an inch from the end and side lines, draw a small cross as 
shown in Fig. i8. Be sure these crosses are placed correctly, 
and are exactly alike in mattress and canopy. Now cut out 
the four squares at the corners of the oblong, as indicated by 
the heavy lines in Fig. i8, and insert the point of your scissors 





Valance 




03 


+ + 

Mattress 
-t- + 




1 


IQ 


I'A inches 









Fig. 18 — The mattress and canopy. 



Straw and Paper Furniture 



11 



in the centre of each little cross and snip along each line of 
the cross. Do not make the slashes too deep. 

Cut the edges of the border, or valance, into small points, 
as in Fig. 17; then bend the valance down at the sides and 
ends of the mattress. The- dotted _ 

lines in the diagrams show where to 
bend the paper. Make the canopy 
just as you have made the mattress, 
but cut deeper points on the edge of 
the valance. 

Through each of the four straw 
bedposts run a small pin two and a 
quarter inches from the end of the 
straw (Fig. 19). 

Push the long ends of the straws 
up through the slashed crosses in the 
corners of the mattress (Fig. 19) until 
the bottom of the mattress rests on 
the pins, then run a pin through each 

straw just above and close to the top of the mattress. Be- 
tween the two pins the paper can slip neither up nor down. 
Run another pin in each straw post half an inch from the 
top, slide the canopy down upon these, and fasten with more 
pins, as you did the mattress. Make the bolster by folding 
a piece of paper the proper shape and cutting the end edges 
in points for trimming. 

Now you not only know how to make the bedstead, but 



Fig. 19 — Slide the paper down 
to the pin. 



The Little Table 



as well, for if you will look at Fig. 20 you will see that it is 
put together in the same manner as the bedstead. 

Make the legs of the table three inches long. Cut the top 
of the table four inches long and three and a half inches 
wide, and the shelf three and a half inches long and three 



u 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



inches wide. Measure one-quarter of an inch from each 
edge of the table top and draw straight lines as in Fig. 21. 
This will give you a narrow border all around the top. 

Make and cut the little crosses in the corners of top and 
shelf, then cut out the squares at the corners of the top and 




Fig. 20— The little table. 

bend down the edges. The shelf of the table should be one 
inch above the bottom ends of the straws, and the top of the 
table one-quarter of an inch below the top ends of the 
straws. 

By making the straw legs of the table twice as long, and 
the top and shelves narrower, you can have another useful 
article of furniture, for by adding two shelves of paper on 



Straw and Paper Furniture 



13 




Fig. 21- 



-finches 



-A narrow border all around the 
tabic top. 



the straws, and fastening them in the same way, this can be 
used as a cupboard or shelves on which to place the tiny 
doll dishes or clothes. The table can also be made into a 
little dressing-table, by sim- 
ply using for the back legs 
straws twice as long as the 
front legs and then slipping 
a square piece of paper on 
the straws that extend above 
the table, to serve as a mir- 
ror. Just as the paper is 
slipped on the straws for the 
back of the chair (Fig. 22) , 
silver paper is pasted on this 
to make it look like glass. 

With these few patterns you can make any number of 
useful articles to furnish Miss Dolly's house. You can make 
small beds and large beds, small tables and large tables, and 
many sizes of chairs. 

You can make 

The Chair 

by merely looking at Fig. 22 and the diagrams, Figs. 23 and 
24. No pins were used in this, but if you want the chair to 
last it is best to fasten it securely like the rest of the furniture. 
The straws for the back should be six inches long and for the 
front legs two and a quarter inches long. The shelf under 
the chair is the size of the seat. 

This furniture will be especially useful in playing with 
paper dolls, and by using different colors, in colored papers, 
you can have a blue room, a pink room, and a green 
room. 

You can make tissue-paper sheets and spread for the bed 
and pillow-slips, too, if you like. Thus dolly can be tucked 
away snugly for the night. 



14 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



The ingenuity exercised in the construction of these simple 
articles will encourage the development of deftness and skill 




Fig. 22— The high-backed chair. 



Fig. 23— Push the straw 
through the back of 
the chair. 

Fig. 24— Cut the back 
and seat Hke these. 



in the little fingers, which are ever ready to imitate anything 
that teacher can make. 



CHAPTER IV 

A NEWSPAPER BOAT WHICH WILL SAIL ON REAL WATER 

You can fold a thirteen-and-a-half-inch square of news- 
paper into a fine boat measuring thirteen inches from stem 




Fto. 25 — The newspaper boat made water-proof and sailing on real water. 

to stern. It will be a good, stanch craft like Fig. 25, to float 
and sail out in the open on pond, lake, or river, or at home in 
basin or bath tub. 

15 



16 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



Cut your square of paper even and straight. Place it out flat 
on top of a bare table and fold at the centre along the dotted 
line (Fig. 26), which will make Fig. 27. Bend each side of this 
down outwardly along its centre at the dotted line and bring 



Fio. 26 — Square of newspaper for 
making boat. 





^7 








" J 



B 



Fio. 27 — Paper folded at centre. 

Fin. 28— Paper with sides hcnt down, making 

four lavers. 



the edges a quarter of an inch lower than the bottom fold A; 
then your paper will be four layers like Fig. 28. Turn up the 
lower edge B of Fig. 28, making Fig. 29. Fold back the three 



Fig. 29 — Paper ready to turn back 
lower corners. 



Fin. 30— Ready for folding l)nrk the 
ui)per corners. 



lower layers of the corners at the dotted lines (Fig. 29) and 
you will have Fig. 30 Bend back the upper corners at the dotted 
lines to make Fig. 31. Open Fig. 31 at the top and it will 
be your boat. Turn the boat upside down and slide 



one 



A Newspaper Boat 



17 



loose edge on the bottom under the other loose edge; then 
pinch each bottom point and bend it down toward the centre 
of the boat, creasing it flat (Fig. 32). Turn the boat right side 



31 





Fig. 31 — Square folded into boat. 
Fio. 32 — Fold points on bottom of boat inward toward centre- 
Fic. 33 — Newspaper boat without sail. 



-this wav. 



up again, set it on the table, bend the two sides well up and 
crease them along the bottom until the boat resembles Fig. 33. 
To render the craft water-proof melt a piece of wax candle, 
turn the boat upside down again and give the bottom a coat 
of the melted white wax, extending the coat half way or more 
up the sides. Use a teaspoon for pouring the wax over the 



18 Little Folks' Handy Book 

boat; the hot wax soon hardens and in a few moments you 
may launch the little craft on the water. 
If you want to make a 

Sailing Vessel 

of your boat, roll up a one- inch- wide strip of newspaper into 
an old-fashioned paper lighter, which is merely rolling the 
strip spirally into a round stick; this is the mast. Cut a 
paper sail, not too large, puncture holes in it and slide the 
sail on the mast; add a small paper pennant on the extreme 
top; then insert the base of the mast into a common wooden 
spool and glue the spool tight to the bottom of the boat at the 
centre of the bow. 

With thread and needle take a stitch or two in the lower 
corner of the sail and attach it with a short length of the 
thread to the stern; fasten securely. Also fasten the pennant 
to the mast, so that it cannot turn, for in this vessel both sail 
and pennant must be stationary and not swing to either side. 
Be careful not to have the sail too heavy. 



CHAPTER V 

PAPER JEWELRY 

Ordinary brown wrapping paper is the best to use for 
this paper jewelry. Indeed the pale, creamy yellow of some 
wrapping paper is much like ivory in color, and the chains 
and ornaments made of it are really charming. 

The Necklace 

See how simply the necklace is made without glue or paste. 
It is a system of double rings that shift and slide in oije's 
hands like the links of a metal chain. When the principle 
is understood it is all very easy. 

The rings may be cut out free-hand by folding the paper as 
in Fig. 34. Cut an oblong about six inches long and three 
inches wide and fold it crosswise through the middle, then 
bring the two side edges together and fold it again lengthwise. 
Start at the top where the paper is folded and cut out the 
ring as in Fig. 34. You will notice in the drawing that the 
circle at the top is slightly elongated; this is necessary in 
fitting the rings together. The ring when opened will look 
like Fig. 35. Cut out six rings the size and shape of Fig. 35, 
then make two smaller ones, like A (Fig. 36), and eight still 
smaller ones, like B (Fig. 36). Now cut a single ring per- 
fectly round, a trifle larger than Fig. 34, a double ring like C 
(Fig. 37), and a pearl-shaped pendant like Fig. ^S. Open 
Fig. 38 and cut the three-cornered catch in one half and the 
slit in the other half, as shown in Fig. 39. Cut the catch 
first, then fold the pendant again, as in Fig. 38, and punch 

19 



20 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



small holes with a pin at the base of the catch through the 
other half, to mark the place for the slit. The slit must not 
be as long as the base of the catch, else the catch will not hold. 
Put the necklace together by slipping the half of one ring 
over both halves of another, as in Fig. 40. Commence with 




The little queen. Adorned with paper jewelry. 



the single ring. Slip half of a large double ring through the 
single ring, bring the double ring together and slip another 
large ring through that, then add another large ring and you 
will have a chain of three large rings with the single ring at 
the end. 

To the end double ring attach a ring, like A (Fig. 36) ; to 
A add a chain of four rings like B (Fig. 36). This gives you 




foXcL 



Fig. 34 — Fold and cut like this. 
Fig. 35 — When the- ring is opened. 
Fig. 36 — Make smaller rings like the.se. 
Fig. 37 — Fasten the pendant on the ring. 
Fig. 38— The pendant. 



Fig. 39 — The pendant open. 

Fig. 40^Slip the half of one ring over 

both halves of another. 
Fig. 41 — Cut a clasp like this. 
Fig. 42 — Fasten the clasp in this way. 



21 



22 



Little Folka' Handy Book 



just half of the necklace, for the single ring is to be the middle 
one. Make the other half in the same way, starting on the 
opposite side of the single ring and slipping ring into ring as 
you did before. Attach the ring pendant, C (Fig. 37), to the 
single ring between the two side rings, then add the pendant. 
Fasten the two halves of the pendant together by folding the 
two points of the catch inward, slipping the catch through 
the slit and then spreading the points out again fiat. This 




Fig. 43 — The finished jewelry. 



makes a very secure fastening and, unless the neck of the 
catch is too slender, it will neither break nor pull apart. 

Fig. 41 is the clasp for the necklace. Cut it out like the 
pattern and make it about three inches long. Slip one end 
of the clasp through the last ring on one end of the neck- 
lace, the other end of the clasp through the last ring on the 
other end of the necklace, then bring the clasp together 
and slip the catch through the slit, as in Fig. 42. The 
photograph (Fig. 43) shows how pretty the necklace is when 
finished. 



Paper Jewelry 23 



The Coronet 

The coronet shown in the illustration of the "Little queen" 
is cut in one piece (Fig. 44) . At the widest part, from top to 
bottom, it is three inches wide, and the ends may be length- 
ened or shortened to fit any head. The ends must meet and 
fasten at the back. 

Little rings, one inch in diameter, cut like Fig. 45, ornament 
the coronet, as shown in Fig. 44. They are fastened by the 
catch at the top through slits cut in the coronet. Make 
three slits, one below the other, a little over one inch apart, 
down the middle of the coronet, and on either side of these 
make six more slits in the position shown on the right half 
of Fig. 44. This gives fifteen slits, for which you must have 
fifteen rings. These dangling little rings that shake and 
twinkle with every movement are fascinating little ornaments, 
and are far prettier than more elaborate designs. 

Ear-rings 

Quite oriental-looking ear-rings are made lik.e Fig. 46. Cut 
first two single elongated hoops like Fig. 47, making them 
almost three inches long and one and three-quarter inches 
from side to side. These long hoops are to slip over the ears 
to hold the ear-rings on. Cut two hoops, like D (Fig. 46) , and 
two pendants, like E (Fig. 46). Fasten the hoop D upon the 
hoop (Fig. 46), and the pendant E upon the hoop D, clasping 
the pendant by its catch as you did the pendant of the neck- 
lace. The children need not follow exactly the shapes of the 
"danglers" and pendants shown here — let them exercise 
their own taste in these. 

The Bangle Bracelet 

The bangle bracelet (Fig. 48) is made as in Fig. 49. Cut 
a strip of paper half an inch wide and about eight inches long; 







— — 49 



Fig. 44 — The coronet is cut in one piece. Fig. 48 — The bangle bracelet. 

Fig. 45— Little rings ornament the coronet. Fig. 49 — Cut a strip for the bangle bracelet. 
Fig. 46— Oriental-looking earrings. Fig. 50 — Cut si.x round charms. 

Fig. 47 — Cut two hoops like this. Fig. 51— A link bracelet. 

Fig. 52 — Slip one link through another. 

24 



Paper Jewelry 25 

make a catch at one end and a slit in the other end, then a 
little below the middle cut six slits half an inch apart, as in 
Fig. 49- 

Cut six round charms, three-quarters of an inch in diame- 
ter, with a catch at the top like Fig. 50, and fasten the charms 




iM 




Playing lady. The lorgnette. 

on the bracelet. Fig. 49 gives the inside of the bracelet with 
three charms attached. This bracelet is large for a small 
child, but can be shortened at the end to fit any litde arm. 



A Link Bracelet 

Fig. 51 is a link bracelet. Make this by folding a strip of 
paper eight inches long crosswise through the middle. Bring 
the folded end half way down and fold, turn back the other 



26 



Little Folks' Handy Boole 



end and fold like a fan. This divides the paper into six 
equal parts. Now cut out the outer edge of all the links at 
once. Free the two end links and cut out the centres of the 
others, then cut the centres of the two links, as shown in Fig. 
51, making the catch and slit like the pattern. 

The links of the long chain shown in the photograph of 
"The queen and her captive," are cut exactly like the 




Fig. 53 — Make 

the lorgnette 

case of a strip 

of paper. 



Fig. 54. 



[""iG. 55 — The glasses 
swing loosely. 



bangle bracelet (Fig. 49). The slits and charms are, of 
course, omitted. Fig. 52 shows how the chain is put together 
by slipping one link through another and fastening it with its 
catch. You can make the chain any length. It is so strong 
that only rough handling will pull it apart. 



The Lorgnette 

Now comes the lorgnette, which works beautifully made 
of rather stiff paper. Make the case of a strip of paper three 



Paper Jewelry 



27 



inches wide and eight inches long. Fold the paper length- 
wise through the middle and cut it, rounding at the top like 
Fig. 53. In one side cut a small round hole at the top, rather 
near the edge of the case, F (Fig. 53) , and fold back the lower 
corners according to the dotted lines. Cut out the eyeglasses 





^^^^H^^^B^^^^^^^^^lj^^^^^^^^^^^^^H 


^^^^^IH "^ ^\v hI^h^^I 




^^^HHl. . '^^^dHH^I 


^^^^^H^^^^^MB' fl^^^^SHH 


^^^^K^I^^^^^^Im^^^I 


^^^K-^^^i-^^H 


^^|pr I^^H 


liM 




^^K^l 



The queen and her captive. 



like Fig. 54. Curl the edges of the ball G together and slide 
the ball through the hole F in the case, as in Fig. 55. 

The glasses swing quite loosely by this hinge, and will 
slide easily in and out of the case. When tucked away 
inside the case a little flirt of the hand, a turn of the wrist, 
will throw them out and they can be lifted to a piquant little 
nose in the most approved and fine-ladylike fashion. 

The lorgnette in use is shown in the photograph, "Playing 
lady." "The little queen" displays jewelry, and "The 
queen and her captive" show the long chain. 



CHAPTER VI 

WHAT TO MAKE OF EMPTY SPOOLS 

Gather uj) all the spools you can find, big, little, thick, 
and thin; no matter how many, you can use them all. There 
is no end of fun to be had with these always-on-hand, easily 
found toys; they may be made into almost everything. 

Spool Houses 

are very simply constructed. Begin building by standing 
ten spools in a straight row for the front of the house. Make 
one side with seven spools placed at right angles with the 
front. This gives you one corner of the house. Build the 
back parallel to the front by standing nine spools at right 
angles with the side. You w^ill then have two corners of 
the house and three sides. Add a row of six spools along 
the empty space between the front and back of the house for 
the fourth side, as in Fig. 56. Remove the third and fourth 
spools from the left-hand corner of the front of the house to 
form the doorway, and examine the foundation — see that it 
is even and straight before erecting the walls; then continue 
the building, placing a spool on top of each foundation spool 
(Fig. 57). Build on another layer of spools, except over the 
second and third spools at the right hand of the doorway 
opening (Fig. 58). Add another row of spools (Fig. 59), and 
another (Fig. 60). Lay a piece of pasteboard box over the 
top of the walls (Fig. 61), and make the roof of a piece of 
almost any kind of paper by bending and creasing the paper 
down along the lengthwise centre and up along the length- 
wise edges. Place the roof on top of the pasteboard ceiling 
(Fig. 62). Do not have the roof project over the end of the 

28 




Fig. 56 — First row of spools. Fig. 59 — Fourth row of spools. 

Fig. 57 — Second row of spools. Fig. 60 — Fifth row of spools. 

Fig. 58— Third row of spools. Fig. 61 — A piece of pasteboard on top. 

Fig. 62— Place the roof ou top, 

29 



30 



Jjitlc Foils' Uaudy Book 



house where you are to l)uil(l the chimney, for the chimney 
must be (juite close to the house. Select large spools for the 
chimney and build it by standing one spool on top of another 
until the chimney extends above the roof. You can top the 
chimney by laying a piece of cardboard over the last spool 
and placing two small spools on it side by side. P^nclose the 
yard with a spool fence, standing the spools a short distance 




Fig. 63 — Trees and flowers made of paper and spools. 

from each other, as in the photograph. Use spools of larger 
size for the gateway, topping them with two smaller ones 
(Fig. 62). 
Make the yard into a cheerful 

Sunshiny Garden 

(Fig. 63), with flowers and trees of pa])er and tubs and flower- 
pots of spools, where the clothesi)in ])eo])le may go for 
recreation. 



What to Make of Empty Spools 



31 



The trees are easy to make and are very effective; they are 
simply fringed strips of paper rolled like a paper lighter with 
the large ends stuck into spools. Cut a strip of green tissue- 
paper fifteen inches long and five wide; then cut one-third of 
the strip narrow, about one inch wide, and fringe 
the remaining two -thirds (Fig. 64). With the 
thumb and first finger of your right hand begin 
to roll the corner as shown at A (Fig. 64). Con- 
tinue rolling, and the fringe, which forms the 
foliage, will stand out on the outside of the rolled 
part or trunk of the tree. When you reach the 
solid, narrow part of the paper strip it will roll 
into a smooth, round stick, forming the lower 
part of the tree trunk. Paste the last wrapped 
corner of the paper roll in place and clip the tree 
trunk off even across the bottom edge; then 
press it into a hole in the centre of an empty spool 
of ordinary size, and there's your tree! You can 
vary the foliage by crimping the fringe with knife 
or scissors before the strip is rolled into a tree and 
by having the fringe of some much longer than 
that of others. If you use different tones, tints, 
and shades of green, running from very light 
to dark, and make a lot of them varying in 
height, the trees will look very pretty and they can form a 
jungle where toy wild animals can live; or a number of the 
trees might form a playground or a grove where dolls may 
go for a picnic. 

In the photograph of the group of trees you will see a 
number of pots of flowers. The flowers are disks and squares 
of different bright-colored tissue-paper, each one with its 
centre pinched together and twisted into a stemlike piece, 
which is pushed down into a buttonhole-twist spool. Around 
some of the flowers a smaller square of green may be used for 
foliage. 



Fig. 64— This is 
the way to 
make a tree. 



32 



Little Folks' Handy Booh 



You could make an extensi\e llower garden by using a 
great number of these short, flat spools and bits of gay tissue- 
paper, and they can be arranged and rearranged in many 
different ways. 

It is possible to make all kinds of toy furniture of spools. 
If you want 

A Bedroom Set, 

use four spools for the legs of a bedstead, place them in 
position and lay a piece of stiff white paper, bent up at one 




rM^ 



Fio. 65— A little bedstead. 



Fir,. 66 — A table can be made in a moment's time. 
Fk;. 67— The lamp. 



end, on top of the spools. The bed will then be ready for 
the doll (Fig. 65). 

A little table can be made in a moment's time. All that 
is necessary is to choose a large spool and place a round piece 
of paper on the top (Fig. 66). Make the bureau of six 
spools close together in two rows of three spools each, and 
cut the top of a piece of paper with a high extension in the 
centre, which you must bend upright for a mirror. The 
washstand can be four spools quite close together covered 
with a piece of paper. A piano is easily made, but you must 
think it out for yourself. Use a small spool for the piano- 
stool. 



What to Make of Empty Spools 



33 



The Lamp 

(Fig. 67) is a spool with a little roll of white paper shoved 
into the hole and a circular piece of paper crimped around 
the edge for the shade. Unless you need the spool to use 




Fig. 68— Just like a kitchen. 



again in other ways, you might paste the paper on and make 
a lamp which will not come apart. 

You can glue the tops on the table and washstand and the 
mirror on the bureau also; though this is not necessary, for 
if you are careful and do not knock against the furniture it 
will remain secure. 

Now make the toy 

Kitchen 

with empty spools, and the entire kitchen will not cost one 
cent of money. 



34 



Little FoJk.s^ IJandy Book 





Fir.. 09 — The stove without the stovepipe. 



Fig. 70— The finished stove. 



See how firm and substantial the little kitchen furniture 
looks in the photograph with its fine stove, dresser, and wash- 
tub (Fig. 68). Use four 
spools for the feet of the 
stove. Over these lay a 
piece of pasteboard about 
six inches long and four 
inches wide, allowing it 
to project beyond the 
front feet to form the 
apron; then build on the 
body of the stove, mak- 
ing it of spools two lay- 
ers deep, as in Fig. 69. 
Cut a piece of pasteboard 
to fit over the spools for 
the stove top, and have it 
long enough to stand out 
a short distance at the 
back; then you can build on the stovepipe (Fig. 70). 

Make the dresser of spools and strips cut from paste- 
board boxes (Fig. 71). 




Fig. 71— The kitchen dresser. 



What to Make of Empty Spools 



35 




Fig. 72— The dining table. 



For the tubs stand four spools close together, and set a lit- 
tle round box on top of them. Make the washboard of a 
piece of paper folded many times backward and forward, 
fan fashion. After carefully creasing the folds, pull the 
paper out slightly and put it in the tub for the next washday 
(Fig. 68). 



After cooking, 



A Dining Table 



will be needed. With eight spools and a piece of paste- 
board cut from a box you can make a fine dining table; the 
legs of the table are four columns of two spools each, as you 
see in Fig. 72, and the chairs are made of spools with bent 
pieces of cardboard pasted on top. The decorations of the 
table are small spools with bright tissue-paper for flowers 
arranged at the four corners of the table, and the plates are 
the round pasteboard tops from milk bottles. 



36 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



When enough furniture has been manufactured, build 

A Wagon 

Cut Fig. 73 from heavy paper or cardboard that will fold 
without breakin";. Bend all the dotted lines and cut all the 



0/\3H 




Fto. 73— Pattern of little wagon. 




» Fir,. 74 — The wagon of cardboard with spool for wheels. 

heavy lines in the pattern. Push a burnt match, or a wooden 
toothpick through one hub, then through an empty spool 



What to Make of Empty Spools 37 

and the second hub. The spool forms the wheels. Screw a 
small pin cautiously through each of the two projecting ends 
of the match, piercing the wood and leaving the head and 
point of the pin standing out (Fig. 74). Tie a knot in the 




Fig. 75 — A Sunday-school room made of spools. 

end of a string to prevent its sliding out and thread it through 
the hole in the dashboard. 

By laying narrow strips of paper on a table or on the 
floor to form a boundary line, you may make a 

Sunday-School Room 

Leave an open space for the doorway at the opposite end of 
the room from the organ. Build up a column of four large 
spools at each side of the space and connect them with a strip 
of paper laid from the top of one column to the top of the 
other. 

Build the fine, large pipe-organ close to the edge of the 
back room. Stand eight spools in a row tight to each other 
at equal distances from each boundary side line. Build the 



38 



Little Folk 6-' Handy Book 



row up three sjjools high, then skipping the end sjjools, build 
on two layers of six spools each; again skip the end spools 
and build on a layer of four spools. Crown the last layer 
with two top spools. Across the centre front of the organ 
stand a row of spools, two high and three long. Over them 
lay a piece of pai)er bent lengthwise through the centre for 
the key-board and music-rack. Bend another piece of paper 
for the music and stand it on the key-board against the rack. 




Fio. 76 — The spool trolley car. 

Make the organ seat of two spools placed side by side in 
front of the organ with a strip of paper laid over them. Let 
the seats for the doll children be rows of three spools each. 
Place the seats one in front of another in parallel lines a short 
distance apart and allow a wide, lengthwise central aisle 
between them. All this is shown in Fig. 75. 



Trolley Car 

Hunt up an old pasteboard box, for you will need a box lid 
about fifteen inches long and eight inches wide as a founda- 
tion for the realistic trolley car (Fig. 76). Use eight spools 



What to Make of Empty Spools 89 

for the wheels; place two spool wheels near the front and 
two near the back on each side. Lay the spools down flat 
and rest the edge of the box lid on the body of the spools; 
then stand a row of eleven spools on each side of the top of 
the box lid. Beginning at one end of the row, build up 
every other spool into three-spool columns; the intervening 
spaces form the open windows of the car. 

Leave windows on the opposite side of the car in the same 
way, and place a row of spools close up against the bottom 
spools of each side of the car to form the car seats. Roof the 
car with a piece of cardboard cut off square at one end and 
rounded at the other. On top of each side of this roof place 
one row of six buttonhole-twist spools, the spools of each row 
separated equal distances (Fig. 76). Stand a spool on the 
front of the car platform for the motorman's wheel and you 
have a car like that in the photograph. 

When the trolley is taken apart use the spools in building 

A Bridge 

Fig. 77 shows that the piers can be built to a good height 
and be solid and substantial. 

Stand three large-sized spools together, forming a triangle, 
with one point, turned to face the opposite pier. This group 
of three spools is the foundation of one of the two columns, 
which together form one pier of the bridge. 

About two inches distant and on a line with the triangle 
of spools stand a group of three more spools, and build up 
each group into a column four spools high. You will need 
two more columns for the opposite pier of the bridge; build 
them as you did the first, and place the second pier exactly 
opposite to and as far from the first as you desire the span 
should reach — say about fourteen inches. 

Lay a strip of pasteboard six inches wide across from pier 
to pier, allowing the ends to rest on the piers, but not extend 
beyond the outside end edges of the piers; then if your span 



40 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



is fourteen inches long, cut from a i)asteboarcl box two more 
strips fourteen inches long and of the same width as the span; 
score each strip across one end, one inch from the edge, bend 
slightly and fit the bent edge of each strip on one end of the 




Fig. 



-The spool bridge. 



bridge, allowing the other end of the strip to extend away 
from the pier and rest on the floor, forming an inclined 
approach to the bridge proper as in Fig. 77. 

When your pasteboard strips are well settled in place, con- 
tinue building up the piers on top of the pasteboard, making 

each group of three spools 
two layers high; then 
build up one spool two 
layers high on top of the 
four columns. 

Complete the archway 
by spanning the two col- 
umns of each pier with 
a narrow strip of stiff white paper bent up into a point at 
the centre and out into a flap at each end (Fig. 78). The flaps 




Fig. 78 — Span the two columns with this. 



What to Make of Empty Spools 



41 



rest on top of the spools. The photograph shows how the 
entire bridge should look, and in the photograph you will find 
a little lady hurrying across the bridge on her way home, and 




Fig. 79 — A spool memorial arch. 

following in her wake Mr. Clothespin and Mrs. Clothespin. 
A paper boat under the bridge would make the scene more 
realistic. 
Next build 

A Memorial Arch 

(Fig. 79), something like the one which was erected in New 
York City. Commence with two groups of spools a short 
distance apart; have three in each group, two in the back and 
one in the front. Build up columns four spools high; then 
lay a strip of pasteboard across from one to the other. On 
top of the pasteboard place two more groups of smaller spools 



42 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



a little nearer together than the first groups. Make these 
columns two spools high and crown each with a single spool 
decorated with a bright-colored paper flag fastened on a stick 
pushed down into the spool. At the base of the arch add three 
more spools on each side, o and o (Fig. 79), and the structure 
will be completed. This is not exactly like the original, but 
for a spool arch it is fine, and a spool procession will feel 
honored to march through it. 

The Parthenon 

If you have enough spools, you can make a miniature repre- 
sentation of one of the most beautiful temples ever built. 




Fig. 80 — The Parthenon made of spools. 



Begin by standing four spools in a row for the first end of the 
building, allowing about the width of a spool between each 
two. Place eight in a row for the first side, four for the 
other end, and eight for the second side (Fig. 80). Have the 
spools all of the same size, that the walls may be alike and 
perfectly even, because, as you know, the walls are to be 
formed of columns, not as many as in the original, but enough 
to give an idea of the Greek temple. Build up the spools 
three deep into pillars; then lay a piece of pasteboard on the 
top of the columns for a ceiling. Bend another piece of paste- 



What to Make of Empty Spools 43 

board lengthwise through the centre for the roof, and stand 
it tent-hke on top of the ceihng. You can measure the correct 
size of the ceihng by laying a piece of pasteboard down fiat 
on the floor along the eight-columned side of the Parthenon 
to obtain the length, and placing it flat on the floor across the 




Fig. 81 — You can blow bubbles with a spool. 



four-columned side to mark the width. Make the roof the 
same length and a little wider than the ceiling, to allow for 
the height of the bend through the centre. 

You must imagine a space immediately beneath the roof 
of the little Greek temple filled in with the most beautiful 
statuary, and think of the spools as white marble columns, 
and you should see, in fancy, another row of stately columms 
inside the ones you have built. Tell all about the real 



44 



Little Folks' Handy Booh 



Parthenon and hunt up a picture of the temple that all may 
see just how near you came to making the little model look 
like the wonderful Parthenon on the Acropolis, in Athens. 
After admiring the building for a while, pretend that a 
left-over spool 

Is a Venetian Shell 

shot from a cannon, and toss it gently against the roof at one 
end of the temple, then see the columns totter and fall, leaving 




Fig. 82— Pattern of butterfly. Fig. 83— It will fly from the spool. 

only a portion of the Parthenon standing, in the .same way 
that the real marble columns fell when the original structure 
was shattered and practically destroyed by the soldiers. 
You can 

Blow Bubbles with a Spool, 

beautiful bubbles, which float and glide in the air with all 
the charm of clay-pipe bubbles. Mix strong soap-suds, dip 
one end of a large spool in the water, wet the spool, then blow. 
If the bubble refuses to appear, dip the spool in the water 
again, put your head dow^n to the spool and blow a few bub- 
bles while the spool is in the water, then quickly raise it and 
try again. Nine times out of ten you will succeed, and a 



What to Make of Empty Spools 



45 



bubble will swell out from the spool as in Fig. 8i. These 
wooden bubble-blowers last a long time, with no danger of 
breaking when accidentally dropped on the floor, and you 




Fig. 84— The ball is placed on 
top of the spool. 



Fig. 85— The ball will rise and fall. 



can always find enough to provide one for each of the players 
who meet for a trial of skill in bubble-blowing. 
Now try 

Pretty Butterflies 

which fly from spools. Cut a butterfly (Fig. 82) from bright- 
colored tissue paper or thin writing paper, bend at the dotted 
line and paste on the large end of a very small cork. Fit the 
small end of the cork into the top of the hole of an empty 
spool (Fig. 83). Then blow through the spool and see the 
butterfly ascend rapidly to the ceiling and float down again. 



46 LiUle Folks Handy Book 

A number of different colored butterflies in the air at one 
time fill the room with charming bits of fluttering brightness 
that will delight the children. 

Take another empty spool and stick a common wire hair- 
pin partially into the hole, bend the hairpin slightly down 
against the edges of the hole, do the same with three more 
hairpins, and you will have a spool with a funnel-like opening 
of hairpins at the top (Fig. 84) . In the funnel place a small, 
light-weight ball made of a crushed bit of bright paper wound 
around with thread. Raise the spool to your lips and blow 
gently (Fig. 85). The ball will rise and fall in mid-air, in the 
same way that you have seen one of rubber dance at the top 
of a small fountain or jet of water. 



CHAPTER VII 

OLD ENVELOPE TOYS, AND HOW TO MAKE THEM 

Don't throw away your old envelopes; see what amusing 
toys can be made of them simply by folding and cutting. 




Fir.. 86 — The side view of the frog shows 
his beautiful open mouth. 



Fig. 87 — The frog is sprawled out on 
the table. 



No paste or glue is needed, and any one of the toys' given 
heTe can be made in five minutes or less. \ 



.%,, ' The Frog 

m ' \ 

The frog is one of the simplest and at the same time the 
funniest of the collection. Fig. 86 gives 'a side view in which 
his beautiful open mouth can be seen to advantage. Fig. 
87 shows him sprawled out on the table. Fig. 88 gives the 
pattern of the frog as it appears when drawn on the en- 
velope. You will notice that the bottom fold of the: envel- 
ope' is used for the top of the animal. Draw the outlines 
as in Fig. 88, then cut along the lines you have drawn. The 
under part of the body follows the edge of the lower lap 
of the envelope from front to hind leg. Now flatten out the 
fold at the top and bend the paper under at the corners, 

47 



48 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



which forms the head and tail. Cut a slit along the folded 

edge of the head for the 
mouth, pull the lower 
part down and the mouth 
will open wide as a frog's 
mouth naturally does. 
By working the lower 
jaw the frog can be made 
to snap at imaginary flies. 
Draw the eyes as shown 
in Fig. 87 and bend down 
the lower part of the 

body along the dotted line, shown in Fig. 88, spread out the 

hind legs, and Master Frog is finished. 

The Little Bed 

For the little bed (Fig. 89) use a long envelope. If the top 
lap is open, cut it off. Flatten out the bottom fold as you did 




Fig. 88 — The pattern of the frog drawn 
on an envelope. 




Fn;. 89 — Use a long envelope for the little bed. 



Old Envelope Toys 



49 



for the frog's back, then bend the ends and sides as in Fig. 
90. Bend up the points 
at each end for head and 
footboards, and there is 



your bed. 

The Table 

Make the table (Fig. 
91) of a smaller envelope 
in the same way, but 

leave the points extending out at the ends (Fig. 90) and cut 
short legs on the bottom edge (Fig. 91). 

Plates and other dishes can be made very easily. For 




Fig. 90 — Fold the envelope this way for the bed. 




Fio. 91 — 'Make the table of a smaller 
envelope. 



Fig. 92 — A comfortable little sofa. 



circular dishes use a cent or a ten-cent piece for a pattern. 
Very effective cups and goblets Cjan be made from old pieces 
of tinfoil. The table, however, is strong enough to hold the 
little china or tin dishes usually found among a child's col- 
lection of toys. 

The Sofa 

The comfortable little high-backed sofa (Fig. 92) is made 
of a long envelope with the top left open. Fold the envelope 



50 



LiiiJe Folks" Handy Book 



into the box shape, as for the bed, with the points turned up. 
Then fold the tips of the ])oints inward, as in Fig. 93. Now 
rcN'crse tlie box and sht down the two front edges which 

gives an opening in 
. .' 3— -_ front. Bend down 

this front piece and 
cut it off on a line 
with the two ends. 




The Arm-Chair 

A deep, low-seated 

arm-chair can be 

made of an oblong 

envelope of ordinary 

size by following the directions for the sofa and allowing the 

back to curve instead of making it flat, then slitting down 

the sides and bending them over to form the arms (Fig. 94). 



Fic. 93— Fold the tips of the points inward. 



The Bath Tub. 

A little bath tub, but one that will scarcely hold water, is 
shown in Fig. 95. In this the upper lap is left open, the 




Frc. 94 — Make the arm-chair of an 
ohhmg envelope. 



Fig. 95— a little bath tub for imaginary 
water. 




Fig. 96 — A doll-baby can ride in this carriage. 




Fig. 97 — The bungalow is made of a long envelope. 

51 



52 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



points are bent under, and the sides left to curve naturally. 
A baby carriage can also be made in this way, but for the 
carriage the points must extend down and have wheels drawn 
on them and the tips must be cut off squarely at the bottom 
so that the carriage will stand. The laj) is the back and the 
handle in one (Fig. 96). 

The Bungalow 

The litde bungalow (Fig. 97) is something very different, 
yet it, too, is made of an envelope. Though it appears to 
have many parts it is all in one piece. The envelope is a long 

one, such as is used for 
' legal papers. Fig. 98 
gives the pattern. The 
heavy lines show where 
to cut and the dotted 
lines where to bend. The 
lap forms the front porch, 
but the porch may be 
left off entirely if the en- 
velope has been slit at 
the top in opening it. 
With a litde care, however, many envelopes can be opened 
intact. Cut along the heavy lines of the door and windows, 
then open the door and the little shutters. Bend back the 
ends of the house and in the middle of each end take a little 
plait from top to bottom. This is to make the ends narrower 
and give room for the roof to slant. Bend the roof back from 
the eaves along the dotted line. The back of the bungalow 
is made like the front, except that it has no door, windows, or 
porch. 

Children who have a knack at drawing can greatly improve 
the bungalow by drawing the slats to the blinds, drawing in 
the panelling on the front door, putting on the knob, putting 
shingles on the roof, etc., etc. 




Frr.. 98 — Draw the bungalow on the envelope 
in this wav. 



Old Envelope Toys 



53 



The Cart 

The little cart (Fig. 99), that will hold quite a heavy doll, 
and can be trundled about like one made of wood, is not cut 
at all. 

Fold an oblong envelope into the box shape (Fig. 93) , with 
points turned up, but let the points be deeper than for the 
bed or sofa. This is because the ends of the envelope are to 
form the sides of the cart and must be longer from front to 
back. Bend the tips of the points in and crease the folds 




Fig. 99 — The cart can be trundled about 
like one made of wood. 



Fig. 100 — This is the way to put wheels 
on the cart. 



sharply that they may lie flat against the sides. Sharpen 
one end of a small, round stick and push it through the middle 
of the folded point on one side, then slide a large, empty spool 
on the stick and thrust the point of the stick through the 
opposite side (Fig. 100). The stick should stand out beyond 
the cart about half an inch on each side, and will need no 
fastening. 

Puncture a hole in one end of the cart, thread a cotton 
string through the hole, tie a large knot on the inside end and 
pull the string through until the knot presses close against the 
end of the cart. Let the string be long enough to reach easily 
from the floor to the little hand that will hold the other end. 



54 Little Folks^ Handy Book 

Besides all these toys, a baby's cradle that has rockers and 
will rock, a cunning little dressing-table with its mirror, boxes 
of dilTercnt shapes and sizes, and various kinds of baskets 
can be made of the old envelope. Probably there are other 
forms it may be made to assume — boats perhaps, that for a 
time at least will float on the water, and animals other than 
the frog. 



CHAPTER VIII 

TOYS OF CLOTHESPINS 

You can make cunning, soft, downy hens and roosters 
simply of raw cotton and clothespins (Fig. loi). The little 




• Fig. 101 — Soft, downy hens and roosters. 

creatures may be pure white, dark colored, or part dark and 
part light, according to the cotton used. 
All of 

The Chickens 

have the same kind of foundation. It is made by sliding the 
prongs of two clothespins into each other (Fig. 102). Be 
sure the clothespins, when together, stand firm on the prong 
ends, for these form the legs and feet of the chickens. 

55 



56 



Little Folks' Handy Booh 



With a string tie a piece of raw cotton over the head of one 
clothespin; ha\'e the string tight, but the cotton cover rather 




Fig. 102— Slide the prongs of two 
clothespins together. 



Fk;. 103 — Tie a piece of raw cotton 
over the head of one clothespin. 



loose. Bring the cotton partly down the clothespin and tie 
it again (Fig. 103) ; - then use your fingers to shape the top 
cotton into the form of a rooster's head; gently pull a little 




Fig. 104— Pull a little of the cotton out 
to make a beak. 



Fig. 105 — A fine little rooster that will 
move his little head. 



of it out to make the beak; tie a string around the beak where 
it joins the head, and, with thumb and finger slightly damp- 
ened, twist the end of the beak into a point (Fig. 104). Cot- 
ton which comes in sheets is best for the tail, but the other will 



Toys of Clothespins 5,7 

do. Lay the centre of a generous piece of cotton over the 
head of the second clothespin, plait the loose ends around the 
pin, and fasten with a string, making the edge of the tail in 
a line with the opening of the prongs of the pin. Cut the 
folded end rounded on top, and slit it up a short distance into 




Fiu. 106— The little hen. 

wide fringe to form the long feathers of the rooster's tail 
(Fig.^ 104). 

With another piece of cotton cover the back and sides of the 
rooster, as you would put a saddle on a horse. Bring the 
edges of the cover together down the neck and body; when 
fitted lift the cover, put paste here and there on its under side 
near the edge, replace the cover and it will stick fast; then, 
with the top of a wire hairpin, push the edges of the cover, 
front and back, in between the open prongs of the clothespin. 
Ink round bits of paper and paste on the rooster for eyes; 
make his comb and wattles of red tissue paper (Fig. 105), 
and you will have a fine rooster which can actually 



58 Little Folks' Handy Book 

Move His Little Cotton Head 

up and down, fast or slow, as you wish. To make him do so, 
hold the front leg steady with your left hand, while with your 
right hand you raise and lower the other leg. Try it, and see 
how naturally the little fellow ai)i)ears to pick up corn in an 
eager, hungry manner. 

Fashion the hen in the same way you made the rooster, 
only have the tail smaller and without long feathers (Fig. io6). 




Fig. 107 — Making a downy little lamb out of a clothespin. 

The comb on the hen must also be smallep than that on the 
rooster. The general shape of the hen is the same as that 
of the rooster. Notice that the direction of outline along the 
lower edge of tail and body is one continuous slanting line; 
remember this when adjusting the tail that it may not stand 
out backward at right angles from the body. 

The Little Lambs 

are made in much the same way as the chickens. Slide two 
clothespins together for the foundation (Fig. 102) ; tie a wad 
of cotton over the head of one pin, then pull the head out a 
trifle on each side for ears, and tie with a string as you made 
the rooster's beak. Cover the second clothespin, making the 
upper part, which extends down, quite thick; then lift the 
upper part, and bring it across to the lamb's neck, for the 
little animal must have an almost level back (Fig. 107). Cut 



Toys of Clothespins 



59 




Fig. 108 — Tie a gay ribbon around the lamb's neck. 

a piece of cotton large enough to cover the entire back and 
sides of the lamb, lay it over the lamb like a very large saddle, 




Fig. 109 — The group of sheep. 



and fasten it in place with paste. Use small inked papers 
for eyes, and tie a gay ribbon around his neck (Fig. io8). 
Make a number of little lambs, for they are so attractive and 
pretty grouped together (Fig. 109). 



60 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



The Rabbit 

(Fig. I lo) has the same kind of foundation as the lamb, but 
stretched out more, bringing the heads of the pins lower and 
farther apart. He needs very long ears, so they must be of 




Fig. 110 — Such a funny little long- 
cared rabbit. 



Fig. Ill — The doggie's head is Large. 



separate pieces of sheet cotton tied to the head. Make his 
head rather large, and in other respects manufacture him 
much the same as the lamb. 



The Ears and Tail of a Dpg 

are too large for pulling out and tying from the main piece 
of cotton, so cut them separate and tie on at the proper places. 
Make the doggie's head large, and the saddle-like cover thick, 
that the little fellow may be plump and fat; cut inked paper 
for eyes and end of nose; with these exceptions the work 
is the same as on the lamb (Fig. 107). 

When tying beaks, ears, and tails of the various animals, 
cut the string ends close to the knot; then the string will sink 
into the cotton. 



Toys of Clothespins 



61 



To dress a 



Little Girl Doll, 



cut a strip of cotton extending from below the neck line of the 
clothespin to within a short distance of the ends of the prongs; 
tie the cotton in gathers around the lower edge of the neck, 




Fig. 112 — Begin to dress the doll in this way. 



Fig. 113 — A strip of cotton for arms. 



and again lower down at the belt line (Fig. 112). Make 
the arms of a strip of cotton about four and a quarter inches 
long and one inch wide; slash in the middle a short distance, 
and slip the strip over the head of the pin (Fig. 113) ; bend at 
the shoulders, fold remaining lengths once for arms, and, with 
dampened thumb and finger, lightly twist the ends into hands. 
The edges of the cotton forming arms and hands will cling 
together. Tie a bright ribbon sash around Miss Dolly's 
waist; then make her hair of a strip of dark raw cotton; fit 
and press it on the wooden head, twisting the ends to resemble 
long braids; pinch the cotton up on the top of the head to 
form a pompadour; when adjusted take the wig off; cover 
the wooden head with paste, and replace the wig, setting it 
well back from the front of the head. Fasten a ribbon bow 



()^2 Lifflc Folks' Handy Book 

back of the i)om[)adour, and tic die braids together at the 
nape of the neck with another ribbon; then ink the features. 
Insert the ends of the jjrongs of the clothespin forming 
dolly's feet into a small piece of double-faced corrugated 




Fig. 114— Little girl doll made Fio. 115— Miss Dolly's Fig. 116— The clothespin 

of a clothespin and dressed back. boy. 

in raw cotton. 



straw board, fasten them in with paste, and the little girl will 
stand alone (Fig. 114). The doll's back is shown in Fig. 115. 
Make the 

Boy Doll 

(Fig. 116) stand in the same manner; fashion his hair of dark 
cotton, his trousers of a strip of white cotton tied around the 
waist and pushed in between the prongs of the clothes])ins. 
Cut the coat from a folded piece of cotton, a hole in the centre 
of the fold for the head to ]jass through; straight sleeves hori- 
zontally cut along the fold; and the remainder in sacque form 
like a Jajoanese coat or pajamas. The sleeves form the arms 
and the hands of the boy. 



Toys of Clothespins 63 

Fasten a belt high at the back and low in the front around 
his waist, giving the coat a Russian-blouse effect; make him 
a ribbon bow necktie, and ink the features. 

These small people are very bewitching, as are also the 
animals. 

You can color the sheet cotton slightly here and there with 
water-color paint if you are clever with a paint brush. As you 
work with these little dolls and animals you will find ever so 
many ways to vary them in effect. They are so soft and 
fluffy that a baby can play with them without injury, and a 
school or college boy may be amused by being presented 
with one, appropriately dressed, as a souvenir of pleasant 
experiences at a college luncheon or dinner. 

To make a foot-ball player, finish the blouse without necktie 
or belt; make the shoulders wide and the hair rather short, 
like a college boy's rough head. So much for the boy. 
Paste a letter cut out of colored paper on the front of the 
blouse to make it look like a college sweater, and gather the 
trousers in a little at the knees. You can tuck an egg- 
shaped ball made of brown raw wool under one arm for a 
realistic touch, if you choose. 

Little girl dolls may be similarly made to represent basket- 
ball players in short skirts and school or college sweaters, 
with appropriate emblems on the front, for a special enter- 
tainment. 

Making these figures is much less trouble than dressing 
dolls entails, and much more of a novelty, too. They take 
so many shapes that they fit almost any occasion. 

In fact, the possibilities of these cotton and clothespin toys 
are almost endless in the hands of ingenious young people. 



CHAPTER IX 

SCRAP-BOOKS 

Mother Goose Scrap-Book 

The nursery scrap-books made of linen or colored cambric 
are, perhaps, familiar to most of our readers; but for the 
benefit of those who may not yet have seen these durable 
little books, we will give the following directions for making 
one: 

Cut from a piece of strong linen, colored cambric, or white 
muslin, four oblongs twenty-four inches long by twelve 



^ i 

i t 

I I 

UiMMMJHi(A JMXuJSt at II «.tLii liM > »^Xn.iUL»-iLiJi J-fiAJtftU « ■ 1 1-« f .f » tAJuiJiJJ 




Fig. 117 — Scrap-book opened and stitched through 
the middle. 



Fir.. 118— Scrap-book folded 
and then stitched. 



inches wide. Buttonhole-stitch the edges all around with 
some bright-colored worsted, then place the oblongs neatly 
together and stitch them directly through the centre with 
strong thread (Fig. 117). Fold them over, stitch again, as in 
Fig. 118, and your book is finished and ready for the pictures. 
It is in the preparation of these pictures that you will find 

64 



Scrap-Books 



65 



the novelty of the plan I propose. Instead of pasting in 
cards and pictures which have become too familiar to awaken 
interest, let the young book-makers design and form their 
own pictures by cutting special figures, or parts of figures, 
from different cards, and then pasting them together so as 
to form new combinations. 

Any subject which pleases the fancy can be illustrated in 
this way, and the children will soon be deeply interested in 




'''@SSM:![iMi!Mj;]!^^^ 



Fig. 119— Three Wise Men of 
Gotham. 



Fig. 121— Little Jack Horner. 



the work and delighted at the strange and striking pictorial 
characters that can be produced by ingenious combinations. 

Stories and little poems may be very nicely and aptly 
illustrated; but the "Mother Goose Melodies" are, perhaps, 
the most suitable subjects with which to interest younger 
children, as they will be easily recognized by the little folk. 

Take, for instance, the "Three Wise Men of Gotham," who 
went to sea in a bowl. Will not Fig. 119 serve very well as 
an illustration of the subject ? Yet these figures are cut from 
advertising cards, and no two from the same card. Fig. 120 
shows the materials; Fig. 119 shows the result of combining 
them. 



()() 



Little FolJx'.s' Handy Book 



Again, the little man dancing so gaily (Fig. 122) is turned 
into " Little Jack Horner" eating his Christmas pie (Fig. 121), 

by merely cutting off his legs and substituting 

a dress skirt and pair of feet clipped from 

another card. The Christmas pie in his lap 

is from still another card. 

In making pictures of this kind, figures 

that were originally 

standing may be forced 

to sit; babies may be 

placed in arms which, on 

the cards they were stolen 

from, held only cakes of 

soap, perhaps, or boxes 

of blacking; heads may 

be ruthlessly torn from 

bodies to which they be- 
long, and as ruthlessly 

clapped upon strange 

shoulders; and you will 

be surprised to see what 

amusing, and often ex- 
cellent, illustrations present themselves as the result of a little 
ingenuity in clipping and pasting. 
Another kind, which we shall call the 





Fio. 120— Materials for 
Tliree Wise Men of 
Gotham. 



Fig. 122— Materials for 
Little Jack Horner. 



Transformation Scrap-Book 

will be found exceedingly amusing on account of the various 
and ever-changing pictures it presents. 

Unlike any other, where the picture once pasted in must 
remain ever the same, the transformation scrap-book alters 
one picture many times. To work these transformations, a 
blank book is the first article required; one eight inches long 
by six and a half or seven wide is a good size. 



Scrap-Books 



67 




Fig. 123 — Transformation scrap-book with pages cut. 



Cut the pages of this book across, one-third the way down. 
Fig. 123 shows how this should be done. The three-cornered 
piece cut out near the 
binding allows the 
pages to be turned 
without catching or 
tearing. Leave the 
first page uncut; also 
the one in the middle 
of the book. 

Cut from picture- 
cards, or old toy- 
books which have col- 
ored illustrations, the 

odd and funny figures of men and women, boys and girls, 
selecting those which will give variety of costumes and 
attitudes. 

Paste the figure of a woman or a girl on the first page, 
placing it so that when the lower part of the next page is 
turned the upper edge of it will come across the neck of the 
figure where it is joined on to the shoulders. 

Cut the heads from the rest of the pictured women, turn the 
lower part of the next page and, choosing a body as different 
as possible from the one just used, paste it upon the lower pah 
of the second page, directly under the head belonging to the 
first body. Upon the upper part of the second page paste 
any one of the other heads, being careful to place it so that 
it will fit the body. Continue in this way, pasting the heads 
upon the upper, and the bodies on the lower, part of the page, 
until the space allowed for the women is filled up; then, 
commencing at the page left in the middle of the book, paste 
upon it the figure of a man, and continue in the same manner 
as with the women, until the spaces are all used and the book 
is complete. 

The combinations formed in this way are very funny. 




Fig. 124 — Leaves from a transformation scrap-book. 



Scrap-Books 69 

Old heads with young bodies; young heads with old bodies; 
then one head with a great variety of bodies, and so on. 

The first picture may represent a man, tall, thin, dressed 
in a rowing costume, as shown in the illustration. Turn the 
lower part of the next page, and no longer is he thin and tall, 
but short and stout, the position of this body giving the ex- 
pression of amazement, even to the face. The next page 
turned shows him to be neither tall nor short, thick nor thin, 
but a soldier, well-proportioned, who is looking over his 
shoulder in the most natural manner possible (Fig. 124). 

The figures in Fig. 124 were cut from advertising cards, 
and the head belongs to none of the bodies. 

A curious fact in arranging the pictures in this way is that 
the heads all look as though they might really belong to any 
of the various bodies given them. 

Instead of having but one figure on a page, groups may be 
formed of both men and women, and in the different ar- 
rangement of the figures they can be made very ludicrous 
indeed. 

Flour Paste 

Mix one-half cup of flour with enough cold water to make 
a very thin batter, which must be smooth and free from 
lumps; put the batter on top of the stove — not next to the 
fire — in a tin saucepan, and stir continually until it boils; 
then remove from the stove, add three drops of oil of cloves, 
and pour the paste into a cup or tumbler. This will keep for 
a long time and will not become sour. 



CHAPTER X 

TOYS MADE OF COMMON KINDLING WOOD 

Just a glance at a pile of ordinary every-day kindling wood 
could hardly suggest to one the possibilities existing in the 
crude material for building all sorts of interesting and realistic 
things for the little folks, but experiment and you will fmd 
that Klondike log-houses, rail-fences and lumber camps, 
bridges, and substantial little rafts which will float on water 
in laundry or bath tub, pond or stream, can be easily and 
readily built from the little sticks we use to star: our fires. 

Let us build 

The Bridge 

first, that Indians and men may cross the water to the lumber 
region beyond, and cut logs for their rafts (Fig. 125). 

Select two sticks of kindling wood as near of a size as you 
can find, and lay them side by side, a short distance apart; 
then connect the two by placing sticks across the ends, log- 
cabin fashion. These four sticks form the square foundation 
of one bridge pier. 

Continue building by crossing the second layer of sticks 
with a third layer, the third layer with a fourth layer, and 
so on until the pier is built up sufficiently high, six or more 
layers, according to the thickness of the sticks. As you 
build be sure that the two sticks forming each layer lie abso- 
lutely steady and are of about the same thickness, that those 
built on top of them may not slant, but lie level and steady. 

All sticks should be of the same length, but the layers may 
vary in thickness; one layer of sticks might be thin and the 

70 



Toys Made of Common Kindling Wood 71 

next thick; it matters not, provided that the two forming the 
same layer are nearly of a size. 

When the first pier is finished, build a second one like it a 
short distance from the first one, and lay a strip of stiff paste- 
board, cut from an old box, across from pier to pier; then lay 
a second strip of pasteboard from one pier to the ground, a 
third strip from the remaining pier to the ground on the op- 




FiG. 125 — The little bridge built of kindling wood. 

posite side (Fig. 125). If you wish, the two end strips can 
be longer than those shown in the photograph, and slant from 
the piers down to the ground on a level with the water. The 
banks in the photograph are built up with boxes and covered 
with green cloth. 

For each of the two archways, take two thin sticks of wood 
and stand them at the top outward edge of the pier, with 
ends braced together at the top, and spread out at the bottom, 
as in the photograph. 

Use either natural or tissue-paper trees stuck into empty 
spools for foliage, or little toy trees, if you happen to have 
them among the children's store toys. 



7^2 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



Though the bridge is not intended to be over real water, 
you might try the experiment and strengthen the hollow piers 
by filling them with stones, when building the bridge out-of- 
doors. 



Fig. 126 shows two little 



Kindling- Wood Rafts 

which will lloat on real water. Have the slender sticks for 
the raft all of the same length, and use about sixteen or eigh- 




126 — Kindling-wood rafts that will float on real water. 



teen sticks for each raft. Weave them together with a string. 
Begin by tying the centre of a long string around each end of a 
stick, which should be about eight inches in length (Fig. 127). 
Place one end of a second stick up against one tie, allowing 
one string to come over and the other string under the second 
stick (Fig. 128). Cross the two lengths of the string over the 
second stick, bringing the lower string up and the upper 
string down (Fig. 129); then lay another stick up against 



Toys Made of Common Kindling Wood 73 

the crossed strings, carrying the strings in turn over this stick 
(Fig. 130). Again, bring the lower string up and the upper 
string down, before placing another stick. Continue crossing 




Fig. 127 — Begin the raft in this way. 



Fig. 128 — Lay a second stick up 
against the tie. 



the string and adding kindling wood until the raft is of the 
desired length. Tie the ends of the string securely on the 
last stick, and weave the opposite loose ends of the sticks 
together in the same way, tying the string firmly together on 




Fig. 129 — Cross the strings around the 
second stick. 



Fig. 130 — Cross the strings around the third 
stick. 



the last stick. Clip off the ends of the string and the raft 
will then be ready for the water, and will carry either pas- 
sengers or freight. 

Put up log-houses for the toy people to live in. Select two 
different lengths of kindling wood for 



The Houses 

that the buildings may be longer one way than the other. 
They will look better and be more comfortable than if square. 



74 Little Folks' Handy Book 

Place two long sticks of kindling wood a short distance 
apart and running parallel; across these sticks lay two 
shorter ones, bridging the space at each end between the long 
sticks, then place two long sticks over the ends of the two 
short ones; keep building in this way until the little house is 
seven or eight layers high. 

Cut a piece of white cardboard or light-weight pasteboard 
the length of the house, and wider than the width of the house, 




Fig. 131 — A Klondike settlement with dog train and sledge. 

to allow for the slant of the roof. Bend the roof lengthwise 
through the centre and lay it on top of the house (Fig. 131). 
Make a door of stiff pasteboard painted or covered with a 
layer of brown tissue-paper pasted on the outside. Cut the 
door a suitable size and stand it up in front of the house. 
If you want 

An Arctic Scene 

spread a piece of white cloth over a table for the snowy 
ground. Canton flannel, fleecy side up, is best, but any kind 
will answer the purpose. Then erect several kindling-wood 
houses and form a Klondike setdement (Fig. 131). 

Original home-made toy men, dogs, and sled may be used 



Toys Made of Common Kindling Wood 75 

to complete the scene, or they can be cut from newspapers 
or old magazines. Stiffen by pasting them on cardboard; 
then cut out the men, dogs, and sled more carefully in detail. 
Bend one leg forward and one backward to make the men 
stand alone, and bend two legs outward and two inward to 




Fig. 132 — The Virginia rail-fence. 

enable the dogs to stand. Paste narrow strips of paper on the 
dogs for harness. 

Make another kindling-wood scene like Fig. 132. 

Rail-Fences 

are peculiar to America. You cannot find them abroad, and 
every litde boy and girl will want to know how to build one 
of these old-fashioned "snake" or Virginia rail-fences. The 
fence may be of any length, its zigzag lines can run in any 
direction, all the way across the room if you choose. 



76 Little Folks' Handy Book 

Lay down one \ncce of kindling wood, and over one end 
place the end of another stick, forming a rude letter V (Fig. 
133). Across the end of the second stick which rests on the 
ground, place the end of a third stick (Fig. 134). Keep on 
building the first layer of the fence in this way until it stretches 
as far as you wish; then go back to the starting point and 
begin building the second layer of sticks, by placing a stick 
over the first stick, resting one end on the far end of the first 
stick, the other end on the top of the end of the second stick; 
lay another stick across over the second stick, another over 
the third, and so on until the second layer is finished. Build 
other layers in like manner, and make the fence high or low, 




Fig. 133 — Form a rude letter V. Fig. 134 — Across the end of the second stick 

place the end of a third stick. 

as desired. Pile up kindling wood into a wood-pile with 
small pieces scattered on the ground, and if there is a toy 
horse you can make him haul more wood (Fig. 132). 

These kindling-wood toys will give a realistic idea of log- 
houses, rail-fences, log rafts, and primitive bridges, and while 
building them the children might be told stories of the way 
early settlers lived and made their homes, or the children may 
''make up" stories about the different scenes. 

Hammocks 

Substantial little hammocks which will hold good-sized 
dolls, and even a real pussy with no danger of the material 
breaking, can be made of ordinary kindling wood or strips of 
pasteboard (Fig. 135). Both styles of hammocks are woven 
in the same manner. The weaving is like that used for the 



Toys Made of Common Kindling Wood 77 

raft and is of the simplest, most primitive kind, merely cross- 
ing of the two ends of each side string between each piece of 
wood (or pasteboard) slat, with loops of string left at each 
end of the hammock for hanging it up. When fashioned of 
kindling wood, like that in the photograph, have the sticks 
slender and all of the same length. When made of pasteboard, 
cut seven-inch-wide strips from a heavy pasteboard box and 
cut the strips crosswise into one-half-inch slats. Have ready 
two long strings measuring about two and a half yards each. 




Fig. 135 — A substantial little hammock. 

Double each string and tie a knot in the closed end, fifteen 
inches from the extreme folded end, then place your work on 
the top of the table, or some other flat surface where you can 
keep the slats flat and even. Begin to weave by laying a 
slat between the loose ends of each string. 

Push the slat up tight against the knots and cross the strings 
on the outer edge of the slat. Slide another slat between the 
two ends of each side string, shoving it close up against the 
crossed strings at the outer edge of the first slat. Bring one 
end of each string over and one under the second slat, cross 
them, and add the third slat. Continue weaving in this way 
until the hammock is of sufficient length, then tie the strings 
securely at the outer edge of the last slat. 



78 Little Folks" Handy Book 

After you have put in the last board bring the slats up very 
close together and draw the strings firm and tight. Tie the 
double lengths of string together at each end of the hammock, 
making two long loops by which to hang up the hammock, 



CHAPTER XI 

LITTLE TWIG PEOPLE 

Have you seen the little people who live up in the trees? 
Little twig people who dance and swing and bob about, who 
nod and bow and flutter hither and yon; some astride funny 
twig horses, others dangling head down, many waiting to 
run a race when a stiff breeze comes along, and all as merry 
as merry can be, tossing their long, thin arms and legs in the 
air just for the fun of it. Perhaps some of these queer folk 
are outside your window now, and it may be near enough to 
the ground for even the littlest boys and girls to reach if they 
stand on their toes. Here are several of the twig people who 
came down and posed for their photographs. We will give 
each one a name. 

Fig. 145 is Miss Daffy-down-dilly, who has just come to 
town and is feeling very bashful about it. 

Fig. 148 is Jack-be-nimble Jack-be-quick, who thinks he 
can jump over any candlestick, high or low. 

Fig. 151 is the Little Crooked Man who ran a crooked 
mile. 

Fig. 152 is Little Miss Muffet, who is so terribly afraid of 
the spider. 

Fig. 153 is Peter White, who follows his nose wherever he 
goes. 

Fig. 154 is Doctor Foster, who went to Gloster in a shower 
of rain, and he is stepping very high to avoid falling into the 
puddle we have all heard about. 

The little twig people do not look quite as real when 
separated from the tree as when you see them dancing in the 

79 



so 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



breeze, so it is necessary to help out their appearance with 
paper heads and hands and feet. 

Use care in selecting your twigs, for they are not all alike. 
Some are quite choice and unique, others more commonplace 
and less amusing. Suitable ones may be found in plenty. 




Fig. 136 — The black bands on the twigs show where 
they should be trimmed off. 



Fig. 137 — Fastening the twig. 



When a small branch is broken from a tree or bush, you 
will find that some of the twigs attached look like queer, 
crooked, little legs, and some, just the right distance above, 
seem made for arms. Then comes the long neck that is 
joined, perhaps, to the still larger branch or to the trunk of 
the tree. Sometimes there are several arms and several 



Little Ihvig People 81 

legs too many and you must look closely and decide which 
are the real ones; then cut off the others. 
You will know the real 

Arms and Legs 

for they are always the funniest ones and the most suggestive 
of comical action. 

Cut the long neck down in proportion to the rest of the 
body and trim the arm^s and legs off to the proper length. 
Remember that one inch of the neck of the dolls must be 
inserted in the head and allow for that in cutting the long stem. 

Fig. 136 gives a branch as it looks when taken from the 
tree, and the black bands on the twigs show where they should 
be trimmed off to bring the little figure into proportions. 
The parts left white or in outline, below the bands, are to be 
cut away. There are two legs to this branch and three arms, 
one of which must be dispensed with. The left arm must 
remain and it matters but little which of the right arms is 
selected. In this case the lower one is marked to be cut. 

Now comes the making of the 

Heads, Hands, and Feet 

These must all be double, for, to hold them on, the twigs are 
pasted between the two halves. In some cases, where the 
neck is quite thick, you will find it best to shave off a little 
at front and back to flatten it, so that the neck may lie easily 
between the two parts of the head and not push the face out 
of shape (Fig. 137). This is seldom necessary, however, 
unless the doll is unusually large. 

Figs. 138, 139, 140, 141, 142, and 143 give the heads of all 
our little troupe sufficiently large to be copied. Fig. 144 
shows the hands and feet. 

Use a heavy brown wrapping paper for the heads and draw 
the faces simply with pen and ink in broad lines, or, if the 





Fig. 138— Daffy-down-dilly. 



Fig. 139— Little Miss MufTet. 




Fig. 140 — Jack-be-nimble. 



Fig. 141— The Little Crooked Man. 




Fig. 142— Peter White. 



Fig. 143— Doctor Foster. 



Little Twig Peoph 



83 



children want to color them, they can use water-colors or 
colored pencils. In any case the features should be strongly 
marked, that the character of the face may not be lost. 







.:r:£ic^^ 





Fig. 144 — Hands and feet. 



You can make the hands of paper like the face, or of dark 
brown paper (not tissue), to match the dark brown arms. 
White hands will give the effect of white gloves. Make the 



84 



Little Folks Handy Book 



feet brown or black, or use bright colored paper to represent 
colored shoes. 

Daffy-Down-Dilly 

is quite a tall girl, standing eighteen inches high in her heel- 
less shoes (Fig. 145). Her head, shown in Fig. 138, measures 
three inches from top to chin; this does not include the 
swirl of hair which rises in a peak above the head. Her 
hands, A (Fig. 144), are two and a quarter inches long from 

wrist to tip of middle finger, 
and her feet, B (Fig. 144), 
are two and three-quarter 
inches long. 

These are the proportions. 
Of course, for a smaller doll 
they should be smaller. 

Fold a piece of wrapping 
paper, making it double, 
and on the paper draw Daf- 
fy's head, copying the one in 
Fig. 138, or making an origi- 
nal head if you prefer. The 
back hair maybe drawn in or 
painted if the children insist 
upon having an all-around 
doll. If the neck is thick shave it off as in Fig. 137. Draw 
two hands on double pieces of paper and two feet on double 
pieces of paper, and cut them out. Daffy's hands are the 
color of her face, and her shoes are black. 

Now cover the inside of the back of the head w^ith paste, 
lay the neck on the head and cover that too with paste (Fig. 
137). Then fit the front of the head to the back and press 
it down until the two halves, with the twig between, are pasted 
firmly together. In the same way paste on the hands and 
feet. Make Daffy's dress of yellow tissue-paper, the color 




Fig. 145 — Daffy-down-dilly. 



Little Twig People 



85 



of a daffodil. Cut a circle for the skirt with a small hole in 
the centre and slit it down the back; then draw it through 
your hands to shape it and make it hang nicely. 

Cut out a little waist with pointed sleeves, like Fig. 146, 
and a pointed collar, like Fig. 147. Make the waist double 
with the fold at the top, cut a hole for the neck, and slit down 
the back. Use green tissue-paper for the collar. 

Put the waist on the doll, gather it at the belt line, front and 
back, and paste. Paste it also at the neck and along the under 




Fig. 146— Waist of Daflfy. 



Fig. 147— Collar of Daffy. 



edge of the sleeves. Paste the skirt to the waist at the belt, 
bring the edges of the slit together at the back, lap them, and 
paste. Wrap a strip of the yellow paper around the waist 
for a belt, then put the collar around the neck, and fasten with 
a touch of paste. 

Jack-be-Nimble 

came from the elm tree. He is ten inches tall from his cap 
to the sole of his shoe (Fig. 148). You will find his head in 
Fig. 140. C (Fig. 144) is the pattern for his hands, and 
D (Fig. 144) the pattern for his feet, which are made of 
brown paper. His brilliant costume is fashioned of orange- 
colored tissue-paper. Cut the coat like Fig. 149, making it 
double, with the fold at the top of the high flaring collar. 
Cut a hole for the neck and make a small slit down in front, 
then turn back the points of the collar at the neck. To 



8() 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



avoid slitting the coat all the way to the bottom, put it on 
little Jack before you adjust his head. His neck can be 
slipped through the hole without trouble; then the edges 
of the coat are pasted together. Each leg of the short 

trousers is made sepa- 
rately, of an oblong piece of 
tissue-paper. This is gath- 
ered at the knee and waist 
line and pasted in place 
(Fig. 150). If the stripes on 
Jack's cap are painted or- 
ange color and his pointed 
shoes are also orange, the 
effect of his bright costume 
will be still more glowing. 

The Little Crooked Man 




Fig. 148 — Jack-be-nimble. 



belongs to the fir-tree fam- 
ily, and as he is clothed 
only in his little rough suit 
of brown bark, you can see (Fig. 151) how the twigs grow 
that form his arms and legs. These are in such positions 
and have such peculiar curves he would look as if running 
even without hands and feet, but the proper adjustment of 
hands as well as feet emphasizes the action. Both are 
turned in the direction in which he is going, and one foot is 
lifted while the other rests on its heel, giving the stepping- 
forward effect. 

You will find the Crooked Man's head in Fig. 141. His 
hands are cut from brown paper, like C (Fig. 144), and his 
feet, which are also brown, are like E (Fig. 144). 

Little Miss Muffet 

the largest of the dolls (Fig. 152), is twenty inches high. Her 
head (Fig. 139) measures four inches from top to chin and 



Little Twig People 



87 



four inches across at its widest part. Her hands are made of 
brown paper, like F (Fig. 144), and her high-heeled shoes, like 




Fig. 149— Pattern of Jack-be-nimble's coat. Fig. 150 — Each leg of the trousers 

is made separately. 

G (Fig. 144), are black. Her head is tilted to one side and 
the thumbs of both hands turn in. 

You can make Miss Muffet's dress any color you like, the 
brighter and gayer the better. Cut the skirt and waist as 




Fig. 151— The Little Crooked Man. 



Fig. 152— Little Miss Muffet. 



88 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



you did for DalTy-down-dilly, but do not point the sleeves. 
Make an apron of two squares of white tissue-paper — a large 
and a small one. Use the large square for the skirt of the 
apron and the small square for the bib. Gather the top edge 
of the large square and the bottom edge of the small square, 
and paste to the dress at the belt line; then make a white 
belt and tie in a bow at the back. 

For the hat, cut a circle of tissue-paper the color of the 
dress, put a little paste in the centre, and pinch it down on the 




Fig. 153— Peter White. 



Fig. 154 — Doctor Foster. 



top loop of Miss Muffet's hair, tipping it a little to one side. 
This will give a crown. Turn up the brim at the back and 
lift it in front to stand out straight. Fringe a small piece of 
black paper for a feather and paste it to the crown of the hat. 

Peter White 



is sturdy compared with the other people (Fig. 153). He 
came from the cherry tree and is ten inches high. The main 
stem, to which the smaller twigs are attached, forms his neck, 



Little Twig People 89 

body, and left leg, and is so large that both neck and ankle 
had to be shaved off somewhat before his head and left shoe 
could be pasted on. Originally the twig that forms his left 
arm extended beyond the joint at the elbow, but it was cut 
off, and the smaller twig was allowed to remain to give the 
comical bend to the arm which adds greatly to the appearance 
of the haste and the swinging arms of a pedestrian. 

Peter White's head is given in Fig. 142. His brown hands 
are cut like H (Fig. 144), and his black shoes like I (Fig. 144). 

This doll is the only one whose head is in profile, but it 
shows that when the shape of the twig suggests it, a profile 
is very effective; and it is usually the easiest for children to 
draw. 

Doctor Foster 

is also ten inches high (Fig. 154). His head, with smiling 

face, is given in Fig. 143. His 

brown paper hands are cut 

like J (Fig. 144), and his black 

shoes like E (Fig. 144). He 

wears his trousers quite short, 

that they may not get wet in the 

famous Gloster puddle, or if 

they do they will dry quickly, p,,. 155-Doctor Foster's short trousers. 

The trousers are made of 

wrapping paper, double, of course, and pasted together at 
the edges after they have been adjusted. They are cut like 
Fig. 155- 




CHAPTER XII 

VISITING-CARD HOUSES 

From old visiting cards you can build all the different 
houses and furniture seen in the accompanying illustrations. 
For the little 

Tropical House 

in Uncle Sam's newly acquired possessions (Fig. 156), select 
eight of your largest and stiffest visiting cards; these are for 



^•i^ 

%? 


-«a|j9 


^v ^^r 




.^^4*. 


IflBJ 


Plilif ^^ 


t 1 


» 


Ij ipl ^ 



Fig. 156 — The little tropical house in Uncle Sam's newly acquired possessions. Made of old 

visiting cards. 

the four walls of the first or lower story of the house. If the 
cards are not alike in size, make them so by trimming off the 
edges of the larger cards. 

Place two of the cards together and cut two slashes, one on 
each side of the centre, through one end of the double layer 
(Fig. 157). Slide the two cut ends together, allowing the 

90 



Visiting- Card Houses 



91 



centre divisions, A (Fig. 157), to lie, one over and one under 
the two cards. This will bring under the side divisions B 
and B (Fig. 157), on the card whose centre division A comes 
on top, while the divisions B and B of the other card will 



|b 




i 

A 


// ^ 


B 





J 



Fig. 157 — Place two cards together 
and cut two slashes. 



Fig. 158 — Slide the cards together this way. 



come over on the outside (Fig. 158). Fasten all of the 
remaining cards together in pairs in the same manner; then 
cut a long slit near the outer edge of each of the four pairs of 
cards, C and C (Fig. 159). Slide the walls together at right 




Fig. 159 — Slide the two cards together this way to 
make the wall. 



Fig. 160 — Slide the walls together at 
right angles by means of long slits. 



angles, and form a square by means of the long slits. Do this 
by holding the open end of one long slit in one wall under, and 
at right angles to the open end of one long slit in another wall, 
and then fitting the two walls into each other so that they will 
stand firm and form one corner of the lower story of the 
house (Fig. 160). 

Strengthen the house with an extra inside wall. Cut long 
slits in each end of the extra wall, then a long slit near the 
centre of each side wall in which to fit the extra wall. 



92 Little Folks Handy Book 

Make the ceiling of the lower story of two more pairs of 
cards fastened together like Fig. 158, and on the ends of each 
pair of cards cut similar divisions, only have them quite short 

(Fig. 161). Bend down 
all of the end divisions 
and fit the strips over 



cA 7/^.^/1 |rpir.tm j across the top of the 

. ^ — # first story from front to 

back, bringing the two 
corner divisions, D and 

Fig. 161 — Cut short slits on the end of the ceiling J) (Fiff. l6l) On the OUt- 
cards. \ o* / ' 

side of the wall, while 
you slide the centre part, E, on the inside (Fig. 162). Dotted 
lines indicate the division E on the inside. 

The second story must be built entire before it can be fas- 
tened on top of the first story. 

Make each of the four walls of the second story three cards 
long. Cut divisions on both ends of the middle card to fit 
in the end cards (Fig. 163). 

When cutting divisions, always fit 'together the two cards 
that are to be joined, and cut through the double layer, which 
will insure having the divisions alike. 

When the four walls are ready to be put together, cut a 
window in the two end cards of the wall which you intend 
for the front (Fig. 164). Only the lower edge and sides of the 
window may be cut; the upper edge is merely bent and throws 
the solid window shutter, formed of the piece cut, outward, 
as shown in the photograph. 

Slide the four walls together and add a fifth wall, to run 
through the centre from side to side, for strength. Use the 
long slit method for joining the centre wall to the side walls. 

When built, turn the second story upside down and fit a 
strip of three cards, bridge-like, over the centre from front to 
back, and fasten it to the bottom of the walls as you attached 
the ceiling of the first story; then fit on another strip in like 



Visiting- Card Houses 



93 



manner over the centre from side to side, and fasten it to the 
bottom of the side walls. The two strips will cross each 
other at their centres, one lying at right angles over the other. 





Fig. 162 — Fasten ceiling on lower story 
by sliding the centre division inside, 
and the two side divisions outside, the 
wall. 



Fig. 163— Middle card for wall of 
second story. 



Carefully lift the second story and adjust it squarely and 

evenly on top of the first story, as in the photograph (Fig. 156) . 

Make the projecting roof of the second story of four strips 



y-j 


1 

m 




3 

i 

1 




J 



Fig. 164 — Walls for second story. 
Details of the visiting-card houses. 

of four cards each. Run the strips from side to side of the 
house and lap them a trifle, one over the other. The roof 
is merely laid on and is supported by the walls. 

The peak is made of two strips of two cards each, and slid 
into a base of one strip of three cards by means of long 
slits. At the apex the cards are also fastened together with 
long slits. 

The little summer-house in Fig. 156 has each of the four 
sides made of one card. The cards are fastened together 



94 Little Folks Handy Book 

by means of long slits. A doorway opening is cut in the front 
wall, much in the same manner as the windows are cut in the 




'ir.. 165— Pag()(l:i 



large house, only in this case the incision is made directly on 
the lower edge of the card, and, when finished, the lower half 



Visiting- Card Houses 95 

of the door is cut off. The door is bent outward and forms a 
little canopy for the open doorway, as in the photograph. 

Make the roof of two strips of cards of two cards each by 
merely laying the strips across the top opening of the house. 

Fasten the ends of the two cards together with long slits 
to form the apex of the peak, and bend the bottom ends of the 
cards out flat, so the peak will stand steady on the roof. 

If the children would like to keep the buildings intact to 
play with at any future time, as they build up the structures 
let them add a little glue or strong paste here and there to hold 
the various parts firmly together. The toys will then last 
a long time and stand considerable wear. 

Tissue-paper trees in spools, furnish the foliage in the 
photograph, while a miniature flag, with its pole supported 
in an empty spool, shows the nation to which the country 
belongs. 

Cut little paper people from cardboard and place them on 
the grounds. 

A fine setting for the scene can be made by tacking a piece 
of green canton flannel, fleecy side uppermost, taut over a 
pastry board, or pinning it on a piece of the light-weight 
patent straw pasteboard. 

The fleecy green gives the appearance of grass, and when 
the glistening white buildings are set down on the grass 
among the trees with Old Glory floating overhead, and gaily 
dressed dolls in the foreground, the children will be delighted 
with the scene; nor will the appreciation be confined to the 
children, for older people will also enjoy it. 

The Pagoda 

in Fig. 165 is extremely easy to build. Make the base square 
of four cards fastened together with long slits. On this 
foundation build up one card on the front and one on the 
back, by cutting two short slits on the lower edge of the 



Mt%.A.I^St^.. 



96 Little Folks Handy Book 

lengthwise bottom of the cards, one sh*t near each end 
(Fig. i66), and sliding one card across the front on the uncut 
top edges of the sides of the foundation by means of the slits; 

then fastening the other card across 
the back from side to side in like 
manner. On top of these two cards 
build two more, reaching across the 
sides from front to back. Continue 
building in this way until the pagoda 
^ ^aa r^ . r. i is tcn storics high. The projections 

Tig. loo — Cut one sht near each '-' -"^ •' 

end. along the sides are made of two long 

narrow cards each, the two cards fastened together at the 
centre like Fig. 158; then the ends are bent up and the strip 
laid across from side to side on the top edge of the two side 
cards which form every other story. The apex roof is built 
of two cards with the top edges fastened together, tent-like, 
by means of long slits, on a foundation strip of two cards 
bent up at the ends. 

The Furniture 

in Fig. 167 is also made of visiting cards. Take two long, 
narrow cards, place them together, and about one-third the 
distance from one end of the double layer cut a slit through 
the two cards, extending it a little more than half-way across 
the cards; then take the cards apart and slide them into each 
other. Be sure that the two short ends of the cards come 
together. Open out the two short ends tent-fashion, and 
bend down one of the long ends across its centre for the seat, 
leaving the other long end erect to form the back of the chair 
for the paper doll (Fig. 167). Make several chairs; then 
make the dressing-table. Place two long cards evenly to- 
gether and cut a slash through and more than half-way 
across the centre of the two cards. Slide the cards together, 
making an X. Bend out the top and bottom ends of the X 



Visiting- Card Houses 



97 



flat. For the top of the table select a rather large card, but 
not too wide. Cut one slash on each side of the centre of one 
of the lengthwise edges. This will make three divisions. 
Cut corresponding slashes, but much deeper, in one of the 
short ends of a smaller card, which is to be the mirror. Trim 
off the end of the middle division in the table top and slide 
the two cards together, bringing the B and B divisions (Fig. 




Fig. 167— Card furniture. 



157) of the mirror well forward, so that the top of the table 
extends back beyond the mirror; then bend up the B and B 
divisions of the mirror, as in the photograph. Place the top 
with the mirror attached on the X, allowing the X to come 
back directly under the mirror in order that the top may be 
steady. If you paste a piece of silver paper or tinfoil well- 
smoothed out on the card for the mirror, the dressing-table 
will, from a little distance, appear quite realistic. 



CHAPTER XIII 

PLAYING INDIANS WITH COSTUMES MADE OF NEWSPAPERS 

The best framework for a newspaper wigwam can be made 
of long-handled feather dusters, but long-handled brushes, or 
poles of any kind you may happen to have, will answer the pur- 
pose; all that is nec- 
essary is something 
you can make into a 
framework similar to 
Fig. i68. Tie your 
poles together at the 
top and spread them 
out at the base, tent- 
fashion. 
Make the 

Covering for the 
Wigwam 

of six large double 

Fi(=. IGS-Framework for wigwam. shcetS of nCWSpapCf 

pasted together. 
Only three poles will be needed when the covering is of 
newspaper, but if you do not happen to have enough news- 
papers on hand for the entire outfit of tepees and costumes, 
you can use a white muslin sheet for the wigwam, in which 
case four poles will be needed (Fig. 169). The sheet, not 
being stiff like the paper, requires more supports to make it 
stand out sufficiently. Should it be inclined to fall in between 

98 




Playing Indians 



99 



the poles, pull it out a little and lay a book over the edge 

which lies on the floor, as a weight, to keep the sheet in place. 

If you would like the wigwam decorated in real Indian 

fashion, cut out large colored paper pictures and paste them 




Fig. 169 — Look at our newspaper Indian costumes. We are playing Indians. 



around the lower part of the wigwam, forming a band of 
pictures. Be the covering either cloth or paper, it will look 
well decorated, but the covering must be taken off and the 
pictures pasted on. The covering should then be adjusted 
over the poles. One great beauty and attraction of this 



100 Little Folks' Handy Book 

newspaper Indian material is that effective results can be 
produced quickly and with little work. 
Make 

Moccasins 

of newspaper, cut like the pattern (Fig. 170). For a small 
pair the paper should measure fifteen inches in length and 
three and a half inches in width; larger sizes require larger 
paper. 

Fringe the central portion of the longest edge according to 
the fringe lines on Fig. 170. Cut the two boundary lines of 
fringe, A and A, up to the dotted line; then bend dow^n all 



Fig. 170 — Cut moccasins this way. Fig. 171 — The newspaper moccasin. 

dotted lines. Bring the two ends together, allowing the fringe 
to come on the outside, and fit the point B over the other point 
B. This finishes the newspaper moccasin (Fig. 171). 
Make 

The Little Dress Skirt 

of two newspapers pasted together along the shortest edge, 
then folded lengthwise through the centre, and the two lower 
loose ends cut into a deep fringe. This skirt needs no belt; 
it should be simply fastened together at the back over the 
ordinary dress with safety-pins. 

Use one sheet of paper for the little fringed sacque. Allow 
the paper to remain folded along the white central band, and 
fold the double layers crosswise through the centre, making 
four thicknesses. Cut an opening for the head according to 
dotted line C (Fig. 172). Fringe the sides along dotted line 
D, as shown in diagram (Fig. 172). 



Playing Indians 



101 



Unfold carefully, that the paper may not tear, and after 
cutting a slit from the neck partially down the centre of the 
front, you will have Fig. 1 73. If you wish to make the garment 




Fig. 172 — Newspaper folded 
ready for making little 
squaw's sacque. 



Fig. 173 — Little squaw's newspaper sacque. 



less liable to tear, paste narrow strips of muslin on the under 
side of the sacque, around the neck, down each side of the 
slit, and at the head of the fringe. 

From a folded piece of newspaper cut the little squaw ahead- 
dress (Fig. 174). Let the top of the feather come on the fold 
of the paper. Turn 
over and crease down 
the straight edge of 
the band at the ^___ 
dotted line (Fig. 174), I- — 
making four layers. 

Crown the little 
girl with the head-dress, pinning the ends together at the back 
with a safety-pin. Slip the moccasins on her feet, fastening 
them to the toe of the shoe with a little stiff paste, and your 



Fig. 174— Head-dress. 



102 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



charming little squaw will be ready to play in the wigwam 

(Fig. 175)- 

Older girls can make the Indian costume from the same 
patterns by cutting them larger. 

The Indian boy needs a lot of fringed newspaper for his 
costume. Cut folded strips to make the fringe thick and in 
two layers. Fold down the solid edge of one strip and 




Fig. 175 — Charming little squaw. 



Fig. 176 — Young Indian chief. 



with safety-pins fasten the fold along the outside line of the 
boy's trousers and stockings, as in the photograph (Fig. 
176). Trim the other trouser'leg and stocking in the same 
manner. 

Cut a generous strip of double-layer fringe to fasten entirely 
around the boy's shoulders, extending across both back and 
chest. Reinforce the top edge of the band of fringe, and 
along the line where the solid paper meets the fringe, with 
strips of muslin, pasted on, to prevent tearing. 



Playing Indians 



103 



For the chief's 



Feather Head-Dress 



cut a folded strip of newspaper long enough to encircle the 
boy's head and allow for a lap — twenty-two inches will 
probably be correct. Make the strip six inches wide; the 
tops of the feathers must be along the folded edge. Let the 
feathers be fully four inches high, and allow a space of one 
inch on the band at the base of each feather, F (Fig. 177). 
The widest part of each feather should be one and three- 
quarters inches. Make the band four thicknesses by folding 




Fig. 177 — Newspaper cut for chief 
head-dress. 



Fig. 178 — Separate and open out the lower length- 
wise halves of the head-dress which falls down 
the back. 



it over at the dotted line; then crease each separate feather on 
the right side lengthwise, through the centre, to stiffen them 
and insure their standing erect. Cut another long strip of 
feathers in the same way, to fall from the head down the back. 
On this strip paste the front and back of each feather together 
at its base. Also paste together lengthwise the upper portion 
of the band, and, instead of folding as you did the first band, 
separate and open out its two lower lengthwise halves. 
Crease them backward away from each other, so that the 
feathers may stand erect and the band be at right angles on 
each side of the feathers (Fig. 178).. 

The open base of the band lying against the boy's back 
causes the feathers to stand out and not fall flat and spoil the 



104 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



effect, as they otherwise might do. The photograph of the 
boy chieftain standing was taken expressly that you might see 
exactly how the newspaper costume of the Indian brave 
should look. 
Make the 

Calumet 

of a strip of new^spaper five inches w^ide and about thirty-two 
inches long. Hold one corner between your thumb and first 




Fig. 179 — Begin rolling paper strip 
for calumet this way. 



Fig. 180 — Continue rolling the paper. 



finger and roll the paper as if you were making a lighter 
(Fig. 179). When you have rolled it to the opposite corner, 
E, remove your fingers and let the paper unroll. Smooth out 
the rolled corners until it springs back into a large roll about 
three-quarters of an inch in diameter (Fig. 180). 

When the corner roll is the right size, continue to roll the 
paper until a long round stick is formed (Fig. 181). Paste 
the loose end of the stick on the roll and cut both ends off 
even, as indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 181. 



Playing Indians 



105 



Bend the paper roll about six and a half inches from one 
end, and bring the bent portion over against and on top of 



cs 



^ 



Fig. 181 — Stick of rolled paper for calumet. 



the roll. Pin the fold down on the roll three inches from the 
bend; then turn up the open end to form the bowl of the 
pipe, which you must make stand erect should it seem inclined 
to lean (Fig. 182). 




Fig. 182 — Paper roll bent and pinned into a calumet. 



CHAPTER XIV 

CHRISTMAS-TREE DECORATIONS 

Fig. 183 is the photograph of a Christmas tree whose 
trimming is entirely home-made. The brilHant colors and 



p 






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i 




^W^XSBPKi 


f 






^A'i 


_ 


^^-M^kt^ 


■ 1 





^ 




^^? 


^1 





Fig. 183 — The Christmas tree with home- 
made decorations. 



Fig. 184— The Christmas star. 



shining gilt of the papers used, give a sparkle and life that are 
most captivating, and the ornaments are so easily made that 
the children themselves can do much toward decorating a 
tree in this manner. 

106 



Christmas- Tree Decorations 



107 



At the top of the tree, shining above all other ornaments, is 



The Christmas Star 



(Fig. 184), and this is the way to make it: 

From a piece of cardboard cut an oblong with the top and 
bottom edges five and a quarter inches long and the side 
edges just five inches long (Fig. 185). Now, exactly in the 
middle at the top edge, make a dot, A (Fig. 185) ; then on 
each side edge make a dot, BB (Fig. 185). On the bottom 
edge, one inch from each 
bottom corner, make the 
dotsCC. With the aid of a 
ruler draw the lines con- 
necting these points, as 
shown in Fig. 185. This 
gives a perfect five-pointed 
star, five inches high. Cut 
the star out, cover its en- 
tire surface with a coat of 
paste, and lay over it a 
smooth piece of gilt paper, 
pressing out the fulness 
and creases. When the 

paste is dry, cut away the paper from the edges, and there 
will remain a gilt star, firm and stiff enough to stand up 
bravely. 

But this is not all. There are to be a number of gold-' 
tipped rays flaming out from the star to represent its spread- 
ing light. For these rays select ten broom straws with two 
prongs. Trim the prongs evenly, shorten the stems at the 
bottom, and spread the prongs apart (Fig. 186). Now, cut 
twenty strips of gold paper half an inch wide and a little 
over four inches long. Lay one strip down, cover the wrong 
side with paste, place three broom straws with their prongs 
resting on the paste side of the paper, and press another 




Fig. 185 — Draw the star like this. 



108 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



strip of gold paper over the first, inclosing the tips of the 
straws. This will give a gold paper on both sides of the 
straws. Then, when the paste is dry, cut away the paper. 




Fig, 186- 



-Place three broom straws on the 
paper. 



Fig. 187 — One triangle cut out. 



leaving a gold triangle on the tip of each prong of each 
broom straw. Fig. 187 shows one triangle cut out. Treat 
all of your broom-straw rays in this way, then cover with 
paste the centre of the wrong side of the star up to the points, 

lay two straws in place, the 
stems crossing, as in Fig. 188, 
and over the stems press a 
short strip of white paper, like 
D (Fig. 188), pasting it down 
securely. Adjust the other 
rays between the points of the 
star, and fasten in place in the 
same manner. 

To hold the star upright, 
make a lighter from a strip of 
white writing-paper for a stem. 
Flatten the top of the lighter, 
cut it off evenly, and paste it 
on the back of the star between the two lower points, as in 
Fig. 188. Over the stems of the broom straws and the end of 
the lighter paste a white paper lining that will reach part 
way up each point of the star. This lining should be made 




Fig. 188— Paste the straws on the star. 



Christmas- Tree Decorations 



109 



before the rays are pasted to the star, by laying the star on 
white paper, tracing around its edges with a pencil, cutting- 




Fig. 189— The Christmas bells that dangle alluringly. 



out the white paper star, and then clipping off about one inch 
of the points. The gold star will look like Fig. 184. 

Not the least effective trimmings on the tree are the little 

Christmas Bells 

that hang by strings from the tips of the branches and dangle 
alluringly. They are of different sizes, and some are made 
of gilt, others of colored paper (Fig. 189). 



no 



LMe Folks Handy Book 



For a bell three and a half inches high (a very good size), 
cut a strip of paper three and a half inches wide and seven 
inches long, curve it into the cone shape shown in Fig. 190, 
and pin together. Cut off the point that laps over, according 
to the dotted line, also the point that laps under, leaving a 
little over half an inch for the final lap. Trim off the bottom 
points even with the shortest part of the bottom edge, as 




Fig. 190— Curve the Fio. 191— Trim off 
paper into a cone. the bottom points. 



Fig. 192— The pattern of the bells. 



shown by the curved, dotted line, and you will have Fig. 191. 
Fig. 191 opened out, will give you Fig. 192, which will be the 
pattern for other bells. 

As Fig. 192 lies flat on the table, run the paste brush along 
one side edge, making the coat of paste as wide as the lap is 
to be, then curve the bell into shape. Make the bottom 
edges meet evenly and press the paste-covered edge over the 
other side edge. Hold the finger inside the bell while you do 
this, to keep it from flattening. • 

The clapper is made of two round disks of gold paper with 
the string pasted between them. For the bell we are now 
making, the clapper should be almost one inch in diameter. 
Fold a piece of gilt paper and cut out the two disks at one 
time (Fig. 193). Cover the wrong side of one disk with 
paste, lay the end of a string across the middle (Fig. 194), 
and press the other disk on top. Both sides of the clapper 
will then be gilt. Hold the clapper up to the bell by the 



Christmas- Tree Decorations 



111 



string, so that half of the clapper is below the bottom edge of 
the bell; then, bringing the string close to the point at the top 
of the bell, run a pin through the string to mark the distance. 
Where the pin is, tie a knot, F (Fig. 194); this is to hold the 




Fig. 194 — Paste the strings 
between the two disks. 



Fig. 195— The clapper in the bell. 



clapper in its proper position. Thread the end of the string 
through the eye of a darning-needle and push the needle up 
through the point of the bell — the knot will keep the string 
from running up too far (Fig. 195). Allow eight or ten inches 
of string above the bell, so that it may be hung high or low, as 



112 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



desired. A bell should never be tied close to a branch, but 
should hang down far enough to sway with every passing 




Fig. 196 — The frosty snow pocket. 

current of air. The long string also adds to the decorative 
effect. 

The Snow Pocket 

(Fig. 196) is another pretty ornament and is made with a few 
snips of the scissors. 



Christmas- Tree Decorations 113 

Cut a strip of white tissue-paper five and a half inches 
wide and twenty-two inches long. Fold the paper crosswise 
through the middle; then fold it again and again until your 
folded piece is one inch wide. The folds must always be 
across the paper from start to finish (Fig. 197). Now, cut 
slits in the folded paper, first a slit on one side, and then a slit 
on the other, as in Fig. 198. Let the spaces between the 
slits be one-eighth of an inch wide, and cut each slit to within 
one-eighth of an inch of the edge. When this is done, care- 
fully unfold the paper and spread it out flat, then lift the top 




Fig. 197 — Fold the paper crosswise. Fig. 198 — Cut slits in the folded paper. 



edge with one hand, the bottom edge with the other, and 
gently pull the meshes apart. Gather the top edge into little 
plaits, and twist them together in a point; gather the bottom 
edge in the same way and twist that; then carefully pull the 
snow pocket out, and you will have a long, narrow bag of 
soft, white meshes. If it flares out too much, crush it to- 
gether softly with your hand. Make a small gilt paper star 
and fasten a narrow strip of white tissue-paper to its top point. 
Open the bag, slip the star inside, and suspend it half-way 
from the top by pasting the end of the paper strip to the top 
of the bag. Make a loop of tissue-paper, fasten it to the top 
point of the bag, and then hang the snow pocket on the tree. 
The gold star gleaming through the frosty meshes is very 
pretty, but if you have several snow pockets, there need not 
be stars in all. 

Jocko, the Monkey 

(Fig. 199) is not made of paper, but of delectable, sugary 
raisins. He is a funny fellow, and will delight the children. 



114 



Little Folk's^ Handy Book 



Thread a clean, cotton string in a large darning-needle, 
then select three of your largest raisins for the body and a 
suitably shaped one for the head. There must be three rai- 
sins for each leg, one for each foot, and three for each arm. 




Fig. 199— Jocko. 



Tie a knot in the end of your string and, beginning with one 
foot, string on three raisins for one leg, then the three for 
the body, and, lastly, the one for the head. Tie a knot close 
to the top at the head and leave a long end to the string. 
Thread your needle again and string on the raisins for the 
other foot and leg, then run the needle up through the lower 



Christmas- Tree Decorations 



115 



raisin of the body, and fasten the second string to the first 
between the two body raisins. 

String three raisins for one arm, run the needle through 
the middle of the top body raisin, where the shoulders should 
be, then string on the three raisins for the other arm and tie 
a knot at the end. Jocko is all right now, except that he is 
very limp. Put stiffening into his joints by running broom 




Fig. 200 — Jocko ready to be 
dressed. 



Fig. 203— Jocko's skirt. 



Straws through his legs, body, and arms. Use a raisin stem 
for the tail, and fasten it on by pushing the largest end into 
the lowest body raisin. Make the eyes by running a short 
piece of broom straw through the head, allowing the ends 
to stand out a short distance in the place for the eyes. Re- 
member a monkey's eyes are always close together, and they 
must be made so in order to look natural. 

At this stage Jocko will resemble Fig. 200; but he must have 
clothes and a hat to give the finishing touches and make him 
look like the monkeys the children are familiar with. Fig. 201 
is Jocko's hat, Fig. 202 his coat, and Fig. 203 his little skirt. 



116 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



Cut all of these from bright-colored cambric of a size to fit 
the monkey. Fold a piece of cambric for the coat, and cut it 
out as you would for a paper doll, with the fold at the top. 
The skirt and hat are circular. Cut a round hole in the 
middle of the skirt for the waist, and slit it down the back. 
This furnishes the costume. 

Now, thread the end of the string from the top of Jocko's 
head into the darning-needle and run the needle through the 
middle of the hat (Fig. 200) ; then push the hat down on his' 




Fig. 204— Bring the Fio. 205— Slit the 
corners of the triangle, 

square together. 



Fig. 206— Opened out. 



head. Fit the skirt around Jocko's waist, and fasten it at 
the back with needle and thread; then put on his jacket and 
fasten that in front. It is unnecessary to say that Jocko is 
good to eat. 

The Chrysanthemum 

ornament is showy and pretty; it is also very quickly made. 
Fold through the middle a piece of bright orange tissue- 
paper six inches square. This will give you an oblong. 
Fold again through the middle crosswise, and you will have 
a smaller square. Bring the two opposite corners of the 



Christmas- Tree Decorations 



117 



square together and fold like Fig. 204; then cut off the point 
curving the edge, as shown by the dotted line. The folded 
part of the triangle is at the diagonal in Fig. 204, the edges 
at the bottom. Now cut slits in your triangle like Fig. 205. 




Fig. 207 — Pinch the centre into a point. 



Fig. 208 — The chrysanthemum ornament. 



Open it, and you will have Fig. 206. Make two fringed 
circles like Fig. 206, lay one on top of the other, pinch the 
centre in a point, twist it, and draw the fringed ends together 
(Fig. 207) . Make a writing-paper lighter for the stem, cover 
the point of the ornament with paste, insert it in the large 
end of the lighter, and press together with your fingers until 
it holds tight. The result will be like Fig. 208. In fastening 



118 



Little Folk's Handy Book 



the chrysanthemum ornament on the tree, stand it up- 
riiijht and run a })in through the stem into one of the small 
branches. 
Strings of 

Colored Paper Disks 

looped from branch to branch, take the place of colored glass 
balls, and add materially to the beauty of the tree. 

Fig. 209 shows how these strings are made. Red, gold, 
yellow, orange, green, blue, and white make pretty disks, and 
show off well on the tree. 

Cut your disks perfectly round, and in pairs; for they must 
be the same on both sides, G, H (Fig. 209). You can make 

the disks on some strings 
all of one size; on others 
they may graduate down 
to quite small ones at the 
ends. When the disks are 
cut out, lay one down, 
bottom side up, H (Fig. 
209). Cover this with 
paste, then lay a white 
cotton string across the 
disk, directly through the 
middle. Allow about six 
inches of the string to ex- 
tend beyond the disk, and 
let each string be one yard 
long. Before the paste 
has time to dry, press the 
mate of the disk, G (Fig. 
209), on top of H, over 
the string, taking care to have the edges even. Go through 
this process with each disk. Paste them on the string one 
inch apart, and leave six inches of string at the last end. 




Fk;. 209 — The colored paper disks. 



tJhristmas-Tree Decorations 



119 



Fig. 2IO is a dainty 

Fringed Ornament 

made of colored and gilt paper. The foundation is a round 
disk of white writing-paper, two inches in diameter. To this 
is pasted the ends of a narrow light-blue ribbon, long enough 




Fig. 211— Six tri- 
angles like this. 



Fig. 210 — A fringed ornament. 

to form a loop by which to hang the ornament. For the rest, 
cut two circles of light-pink tissue-paper, six inches in diam- 
eter, fringe them on the edges to the depth of one inch, 
making the fringe quite fine; then paste one circle on one 
side of the foundation, the other circle on the other side. 
Now, from your gold paper cut six long, narrow triangles, 
and cut the wide end into fringe two inches deep (Fig. 211). 



120 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



Paste these tufts of gold fringe at equal distances on the 
pink circle, making the points meet at the centre. Make a 
smaller, light-blue, fringed circle, and a still smaller pink 
circle. Paste the centre of the blue circle over the centre 




Fig. 212 — Another ornament. 



of the gold fringe, and the centre of the small pink circle 
over the centre of the blue. Cut out a small, eight-pointed 
gold star and paste directly in the middle of the pink circle. 
You can vary this kind of ornament in a number of ways. 
Fig. 212 shows another made on the same principle. 



Christmas- Tree Decorations 121 

The crowning glory of every Christmas tree is its 

Candles 

and, whether h'ghted or not, they are always prominently in 
evidence. Of late years the people have grown wise in the 




Fig. 213— Little paper candles. 

matter of fires, and many parents refuse to light the Christmas 
candles on their children's tree because of the great danger of 
conflagration. 

Fig. 213 shows some paper candles on an evergreen branch, 
standing upright and burning briskly. The candles may be 
made of white as well as colored paper. Make an oblong, R 
(Fig. 214), four inches long and two and a half inches wide, 
the wick one-quarter of an inch high, and the back of the 
flame, L, three-quarters of an inch long. From orange- 
colored tissue-paper cut the flame (Fig. 215). This should 
be a little over a half an inch wide at the base and two inches 
long. Lay an oblong on the table in front of you; take a 



U2 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



large-sized pencil; place it on the long edge farthest away 
from the flame, and roll it on the pencil (Fig. 216) until the 
opposite edge overlaps the roll. Then run the paste brush 
along the edge and paste it down. Your candle is now a 




Fig. 214— Begin the candle in this 
way, 



Fig. 216— Roil it Fig. 217— The 
on a pencil. finished candle. 

hollow roll. Slip the roll off the pencil and cut two slim 
notches opposite to each other, in the bottom edge (Fig. 217). 
Make the notches on some of the candles at the front and 
back, on others at each side. This is so that the flames may 
always face outward, tho'ugh the branches that hold the 
candles may turn in various directions. Lastly, paste the 



Christmas'- Tree Decorations 123 

flame on the back of the flame, allowing the tip to flare out at 
one side as though stirred by a current of air (Fig. 217). 

In placing the candles, stand them up astride the branches 
by means of the notches at the bottom, turning the right side 
of the flame always toward the room. The tiniest twigs will 
hold these paper candles easily, and when the needles of the 
fir interfere with their adjustment, pull off some of the needles 
and set the candles astride the bare places on the branches. 

Finish the tree by throwing over it a web of long, very 
narrow strips of white and orange-colored tissue-paper. 

The narrower the strips the better they will look. 

It hardly seems necessary to offer a word of caution, but it 
will do no harm to say that the flame of gas, candle, or fire, 
should not come near this paper-decked tree, though it is 
scarcely more inflammable than a tree trimmed with tinsel. 



CHAPTER XV 

A HOME-MADE SANTA CLAUS 

"Merry Christmas! Merry Christmas!" calls out Santa 
Claus cheerily as the guests come trooping into the room. 

Laughing and joking, his eyes twinkling with fun, Santa 
Claus names each person as he hands out the gifts from his 
fat Christmas bag and from the generous pile at his feet. All 
this merriment happens at Christmastide when you play the 
part of good " Kris Kringle" in your own home, in the school- 
room, the Sunday-school, or in any place where Christmas is 
celebrated and where children are gathered to enjoy the 
festivities. 

Take a good long look at Santa Claus, as shown in the 
picture (Fig. 218) ; then turn your eyes to the illustration (Fig. 
219). Can you believe it possible that the two photographs 
are of the same person in identically the same pose? Such 
is truly the case. The second gives the woman's back, while 
the first shows her face, arms, and hands transformed into 
those of the jolly saint. 

You can see at a glance how very easy it will be for you to 
have a real, live, little Santa Claus for your Christmas. 

Any one — grandfather, grandmother, father, mother, big 
sister or brother, or you yourself — can assume the character 
of this live little saint, can grow suddenly short of stature, 
jolly and fat, be arrayed in scarlet, ermine-trimmed, and 
crowned with a red-peaked hat, all in less time than it takes 
to tell it; and, stranger still, the transformation may be 
accomplished in a very comfortable way, without even the 
bother of changing the usual attire. 

124 



A Home-Made Santa Claus 



125 



It is essential merely to paste on the face tufts of raw cotton 
for eyebrows, mustache and goatee, and to slip over each 
arm an extra sleeve. This accomplished, and the proper 
position taken behind the curtain, lo, "magic change"! 
There you are as fine a litde Santa Claus as any one would 



if 


HHBB:. 


w^>. 






BB'j^ 




Fig. 218 — Santa Claus as the spectators 
see him. 



Fig. 219— The real Santa Claus behind 
the curtain. 



care to see, and your best friend would not recognize you, so 
complete is the change. Disguise your voice and no one can 
find you out, not even your nearest relative. 

When the gifts have been distributed and you are ready 
to go out among the excited children or family circle again, 
step from the curtain, pull off the extra sleeves, remove the 
cotton from your face, and in a moment's time you will again 
be your own natural self. 

When preparing this entertainment you will find the de- 
mand on your purse very slight, the principal outlay being 



126 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



for the curtain. Purchase moss-green lining cambric, at 
four, ihe, or six cents a yard, to stretch over the doorway you 
intend to use. Two yards and a quarter cut in one full 
breadth and one half breadth, when sewed together into, a 
curtain, will be enough for an ordinary doorway. Doorways 
vary in size, however, and it is best to take the measurements 
of yours before buying the material. The space between 
the folding doors will probably call for five yards of cambric. 
When the strips of cloth are sewed together, stretch the 








Fk;. 220 — Holes in curtain 
for face and arms. 



Fig. 221— Cap and body of Fig. 222— Pattern Fig. 223— Santa 
coat pinned on curtain. for sleeve-cap. Claus's paste 

board boot 
top. 



curtain taut over the opening, tacking it at long intervals on 
the topmost level of the wood-work over the door and on the 
extreme edge of the door jamb next to the wall. If fastened 
in this manner, tacks will not injure the wood-work. 

Stand on the floor facing the centre of the curtain and mark 
the place where your face comes; then where your arms will 
most easily pass through the curtain. Cut holes in the cloth, 
one for your face with chin entirely through, and two for 
your arms (Fig. 220). Cut the holes small; they can be 
enlarged if necessary. 

Make Santa Claus's cap of a 
twelve inches wide and seventeen 



piece of scarlet cambric 
inches long; tie one end 



A Home-Made Santa Claus 127 

with a string into a tassel; then pin the cap on top of the 
face opening (Fig. 221), and cut the lower edge into a curve 
to fit the hole as indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 221. 
One width of scarlet cambric twenty-six inches long, used 
just as it comes, will make the jacket. 

Draw in one edge of the coat to meet the inner edge of the 
armhole and pin it there; do the same with the other side, 
and you will have fulness in front to allow for padding. 
Bring the sides around the armhole outward again and pin 
in place; then fold up a wide hem and pin the sides of the 
jacket to the curtain and fill out the inside of the jacket with 
half sheets of newspaper lightly crumpled (Fig. 221). 

Pin enough paper to the curtain under the coat to give 
the body of Santa Claus a decidedly rounded appearance; be 
sure that the padding is securely fastened to the curtain. 
Then pin the sleeve caps, cut according to Fig. 222, around 
the outer edge of the armhole. Pin raw white cotton around 
the face opening to form the hair and long, full beard. Allow 
the cotton to come well over the edge of the hole, that it may 
lie naturally on Santa Claus's face. 

With ink, mark the fleecy side of the strips of white canton 
flannel to resemble white ermine. Notice particularly the 
shape of the black ermine dots and have yours like them. 
Pin one ermine strip down the front of the red jacket and 
another across the bottom edge. Make two long, separate 
scarlet sleeves, unhemmed at top and bottom, and pin a band 
of ermine around each for a cuff. The only necessary sewing 
for the entire costume is the seams of the sleeves. 

Polish up a pair of ordinary old shoes, stuff them out with 
newsf)apers, and use them for Santa Claus's feet. Roll two 
pieces of cardboard, or pieces of limber pasteboard boxes, into 
cylinders; ink or blacken them. When dry, cut a curve in one 
end of each, like Fig. 223, and fit these tops over the stuffed 
shoes to make them into boots. Set the boots on a bench or 
a low table, placed across in front of Santa Claus, and adjust 




Fin. 224 — Santa Claus's costume ready for the impersonator. 



A Home-Made Santa Claus 129 

them under the coat, so the little fellow will appear to be 
standing on the bench (Fig. 224). Pin Christmas greens, 
either natural or of tissue-paper, over the top and down the 
sides of the curtain, and you will have a unique, very effective, 
and novel arrangement for Christmas, easy to make, and 
costing but a trifle. Try it. 



CHAPTER XVI 

NATURE STUDY WITH TISSUE-PAPER 

A NATURAL flower, some tissue-paper, a pair of scissors, a 
spool of thread, and nimble fingers are all you need. 

There are no patterns, only circles and squares and strips 
of paper which you gather here, spread out there, wrap 
and tie somewhere else, and, with deft fingers, model into 
almost exact reproductions of the natural flower before 
you. 

With its unfamiliar terms to be committed to memory and 
the many parts of the flower to be distinguished, botany is 
apt to prove dry and tiresome to the little child, but to study 
nature by copying the flowers in this marvellously adaptable 
material is only a beautiful game which every child, and 
indeed many grown people, will delight in. The form of the 
flower, its name and color, may, by this means, be indelibly 
stamped upon the memory, and a good foundation laid for 
further study. 

The Best Models 

Ordinary garden flowers and those most easily procured 
make the best models. The carnation, the morning-glory, 
and the rarer blossoms of the hibiscus are well adapted 
to the work, also the daffodil and some of the wonderful 
orchids. 

Even holly, with its sharp-spiked leaves and scarlet berries, 
and the white-berried, pale green mistletoe may be closely 
copied. All these and many more are made on the same 

130 



Nature Study with Tissue- Paper 131 

principle, and in so simple a manner that even quite a little 
child may succeed in producing very good copies from nature. 

Material 

Buy a sheet of light pink tissue-paper, another of darker 
pink, and one of the darkest red you can find; then a sheet 
of light yellow-green and one of dark green. Have a table 
"cleared for the action" and place your paper on the right- 
hand side, adding a 
pair of scissors and a 
spool of coarse thread, 
or, better still, of soft 
darning cotton. 

With all this you 
are to copy the 

Carnation 

which some one has 
given you or you 
have growing in your 
own garden. Make 
one of your light pink 
paper, one of the 
darker pink, and an- 
other of the rich, deep 
red to have a variety 
(Fig. 225). 

Lay your natural Fig. 225— carnations modelled from tissue-paper. 

flower down on the 

left-hand side of the table, away from your material, but 
within quite easy reach, for it must be consulted frequently. 
Seat yourself comfortably and don't work hurriedly. 

The first thing necessary in this system of squares and 
circles is to know 




132 



Little Folks' Handy Book 




How to Cut a Circle Quickly 

easily, and accurately, and always without a pattern. Here 

is a method which never fails: 

Cut a square the size you wish to make your circle. 

That is, if you want a 
circle with a diameter of 
four inches, cut a four- 
inch square (Fig. 226). 
Fold the square diago- 
nally through the centre 
according to the dotted 
line on Fig. 226, and you 
have a triangle (Fig. 227). 
Fold this at the dotted 
h'ne and it will make an- 
other triangle (Fig. 228). 
Again fold through the 
middle and you have 
the third triangle (Fig. 

229). Fold once more and Fig. 230 is the result. Measure 

the distance from the 

edge, B, to the centre, 

A, in Fig. 230, and mark 

the same distance on the 

other side of the triangle 

shown by the dot, C (Fig. 

231). With your scissors 

cut across from C to B, 

curving the edge slightly, 

as shown by the dotted 

line from C to B (Fig. 

231). Fig. 232 is the 

circle still in its folds. 

Fig. 233 is the circle 

opened, the dotted line indicating where it has been folded. 



Fig. 226 — Fold the square diagonally through 
the centre. 




Fig. 227 — The folded square makes the triangle. 




Fig. 228— The second triangle. 



Fig. 229— The third 
triangle. 




Fig. 230— The fourth 
triangle. 




Fig. 231— Cut along 
dotted line. 




Fig. 232— The 
folded circle. 




Fig. 233— The circle opened. 



134 Little Folks' Handy Book 

Your eye will soon become sufficiently accurate to enable 
you to gauge the distance from A to B, and you can then cut 
from C to B without measuring. 

Before Beginning Your Flower 

take u]) the natural one and examine it carefully. You will 
notice that it has a great many petals crowded closely together, 
and that their edges are pointed like a saw. You will also 
see that the calyx is wrapped snugly around the lower part 
of the flower, and that it, too, has a pointed edge. 

Now hold the pink off at arm's length. The separateness 
of the petals disappears and you see them only as a mass; 
the points on the edges are not noticeable except as they give 
the flower a crimped appearance, and the edge of the calyx 
looks almost straight. It is this appearance or the impression 
of the flower that you are to produce rather than its many 
and little separate parts. So now set to work. 

Cut Two Squares for Each Pink 

one measuring five and a quarter inches, the otjier four and 
three-quarters inches, and turn them into circles (Fig. 233), 
by the method just explained. Take one of the circles at the 
centre, where the folding lines cross, with the tips of the fingers 
of your left hand, and pinch it together; then, while still 
holding it, crimp the edge with the fingers of your right hand 
(Fig. 234) . Do this always with every kind of flower, whether 
it be made of circles or squares. Without loosening your 
hold of the centre, draw the paper lightly through your right 
hand several times, then crimp the edge again, this time with 
the blade of the scissors. Treat all the circles alike, then 
place a small circle inside a larger one and draw them through 
your hand to bring them close together, pinching them closely 
until within a little over an inch of the edge (Fig. 235). Make 
a slender lighter of ordinary writing-paper (Fig. 236), snip 



Nature Study with Tissue- Paper 135 



off the point of the flower, D, in Fig. 235, open the other end 
a little, and push the lighter through until its head is hidden. 
This forms the stem. Wrap and tie with thread at the 




Fig. 234— Crimp the edge with 
your fingers. 




Fig. 235 — Draw these through your 
hand to bring them closely to- 
gether. 



1, 



Fig. 236— Make the stem of 
a paper lighter. 



bottom of the flower (Fig. 237), and again where the petals 
spread. This last is to be but temporary, as you will remove 
the thread when the flower is sufficiently pressed together to 
hold its shape. 

From your light green paper cut a circle measuring three 



136 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



and a quarter inches through its diameter and cut it in two 
to make the half circle for the calyx (Fig. 238). Remove the 
thread that holds the flower just below its petals and wrap the 
calyx closely around the lower part, tying it at the bottom; 




5/4 incVieb 

Fig. 238— The calyx. 




Fig. 237— Tie the flower to the 



Fig. 239 — Wrap the paper spirally 
around the stem. 



then cut a narrow strip of dark green paper and wrap it 
spirally around the stem, beginning at the top (Fig. 239). 
Let the wrapper extend a little below the lighter and twist 
the end to hold it ir^ place. Spread the petals of your flower 
as much like the natural blossom as possible. 



Nature Study with Tissue-Pajjer 



137 



Leaves 

For the leaves cut a strip of dark green paper six inches 
long and three-quarters of an inch wide (Fig. 240). Find the 
cenle by folding the paper end to end and makmg the crease 
shown by the dotted line in Fig. 240. Gather .t along th.s 



Fig. 240— 
The leaves. 




Fig. 241— Twist each 
end into a point. 



line, not with needle and thread-we use no needle in this 
work-but with your fingers, and pinch it together; then twist 
each end into a point (Fig. 241). With the sharp end of your 
scissors punch a hole directly through the centre E (Fig. 
241), and push the point of the stem through the hole, bring- 
ing the leaves as far up on the stem as you find them on the 
natural flower; then wrap and tie them in place. 



188 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



The Bud 

is made of a circle of dark green paper the diameter of which 
is three and a quarter inches (Fig. 242). Gather this cir- 
cle between your fingers as you did the others and crimp the 
edge with the scissors. It will then form a little bag or cup 
like Fig. 242. Slip the bag over the head of the lighter and 
tie at the bottom, as in Fig. 243. If the bud does not take 





Fig. 242 — Make the bud of a circle. 



Fig. 243 — Slip the bag over 
the head of the lighter. 



the. proper shape at first, model it with your fingers until it is 
correct. Start the wrapping of the stem just above where the 
bud is tied and finish as you did the stem of the pink. Use 
small leaves on the bud stem, having the strip of paper just as 
wide, but considerably shorter than for the leaves on the stem 
of the open flower. 

It is wonderful how very natural these blossoms appear. At 
a short distance no one would think they are not the real, old 
and familiar pinks. Only the fragrance is missing, and that 
may also be supplied and a spicy odor given by inclosing a 
whole clove in the heart of each flower. 



Nature Study with T issue-Paper 139 



The Morning-Glory 

From the pale pink paper you can make a delicately beau- 
tiful morning-glory (Fig. 244). Have the natural flower with 




Fig. 244 — Morning-glory modelled from tissue- 
paper. 



its stem and leaves to copy from, even if the blossom is not 
the color you want. As with the pink, it is the general form 
and appearance we strive for in the morning-glory, not the 
detail. 

Make your pink circles with a diameter of about seven 
inches. It is always better to have your flowers a trifle 
larger than the natural ones, rather than smaller. 



140 



Little Folks' Handy Book 



But one circle is required for each morning-glory. Crimp 
this in your fingers and draw through your hand as you did the 
circles for the pinks; then, pinching it together to within one 
and a half inches of the edge, hold it in your left hand and 
flatten out the top, as in Fig. 245. See that the fulness is 




Fig. 245 — Flatten out the top. 



evenly distributed, and pull and straighten out the edges until 
you are satisfied with its appearance. 

A piece of bonnet-wire makes the best stem if you wish to 
give the true viny effect of the growth. If it is only the 
blossom you are making, a paper lighter will answer. When 
you use the wire, bend one end over to form a small loop; 
this is to keep the stem from slipping through the flower. 
Pass the straight end of the wire through the centre of the 
flower and draw it down until the loop is hidden. 



Make 



Nature Study with Tissue-Paper 141 



The Calyx 



of a square of light green paper measuring about four and a 
half inches. Fold the square four times through the centre 



'\. 


I 






\ 




\ 


/ 


\ 


1 / 


>, 


\ 


\^ 


\ y 


*». 


\ ,' 


^\ 


\/' 


4jl"y 


rjiiches) ' 


,' 


• " 


/' 


^. 




>^ 


/ 


\^ 


/ 




/ 


\^ 




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Fig. 246 — Green square for calyx. 




Fig. 247 — Hold the square at the centre. 



to form the creases shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 246. 
Hold the square at the centre and draw the edges down as in 
Fig. 247; then bring the two edges together in gathers, just 




Fig. 248— Form a leaf-shaped point. 




Fig. 249— Twist each comer into a point. 



Nature Study with Tissue-Paper 143 

below one of the corners, to form a leaf-shaped point, as in 
Fig. 248. Gather below each corner, tie as in Fig. 249, and 
twist each corner into a sharp point like F (Fig. 249). Draw 




Fig. 250 — Bring the points together. 



the calyx through your hand, bringing the points together 
(Fig. 250). Push the calyx up on the stem and tie just at the 




Fio. 251 — Gather along one of the creases. 



base of the flower, then tie again about three-quarters of an 
inch below and wrap the remainder of the calyx close to 
the stem. Wind the stem with light green tissue-paper and 
bend it as the natural one is bent and curved. 



144 



LMe Folk's Handy Book 



Make several buds of the pink paper, following the direc- 
tions given for the green bud of the pink; then twist each 
bud at the point and add a calyx. 

The wilted flower shown in the illustration is made by 
taking one of the morning-glories you have just finished 
and actually wilting it by drawing the flower together and 




Fig. 252 — The morning-glory leaves. 



creasing and pressing it to resemble the partially closed and 
drooping natural blossom. 

Only a piece of dark green paper six inches square is 
required to model two almost perfectly shaped morning-glory 
leaves. 

Fold the square twice diagonally across from corner to 
corner to find its centre; then begin at one corner and gather 
along one of the creases until you reach the centre (Fig. 251). 
Start again at the opposite corner, gather along the crease to 
the centre, then wrap and tie (Fig. 252). Pinch each leaf from 
underneath along the crease in the middle, to give the depres- 
sion at the midrib. Straighten the leaf out a little at its 
widest [)art and you will find you have a pair of leaves which 
are surprisingly natural. Wrap and tie these to the stem 
and make as many more as you think are needed. 



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MA 



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One copy del. to Cat. Div. 



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